|GPS:||43.811, -91.21 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||58,028 total · 451/month|
|Shared By:||TravisMelin on Jun 22, 2007|
|Admins:||Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE|
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DescriptionMany years ago Grandad's Bluff was known as a somewhat chossy hardman's crag, with only a cluster of 5.12-5.13 routes. A lot has changed over the last several years however, and a bunch of new routes have been bolted by the local crew. Today the crag features almost 40 clean sport lines, most of which fall in the 5.9-5.10d range. A large increase in number of climbers both from local universities, and the surrounding area has help solidify and remove most all of the loose or dirty rock.
Many of the early routes were established by D. Groth in the 90's, new routes have been established by several area climbers including A. Stetzer, F. Skemp, Corey M., S. Tucker, N. Kutcher, and T. Melin. If one were to look hard enough in the surrounding bluffs you will find that the areas climbing history predates this by quite a while. An unlisted 5.11 route exists on a neighboring bluff that hosts 70's style homemade bolts and hangers. I've always wondered who established this line...
Classic Area Challanges:
Meter Wall Slam - redpoint all the Meader Wall routes in a session
The Grand Slam - redpoint all the routes on the bluff in one day
Patent Pending Speed Lap - See route for details
Classic Link-up - Do the meter wall traverse and finish up any route (for the enduro junkies)
Getting ThereUp Bliss Road from town, take a right at the Alpine Inn. Parking for the Meader Wall/Adidas Wall/Mushroom Wall, etc is as shown below in the pics, however please note the cinder block bathroom is no longer there.
In case Bliss Road is washed out (as it usually is lately): Continue past the Bliss road turn off headed south, take a left at the Kmart which is hwy 33 and head up the hill (east) and then a left onto County road F (north, but winds it's way around back west), which then leads you right to Grandads... Alpine Inn will be on your left.
Classic Climbing Routes at Grandad's Bluff
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season