Elevation: 1,014 ft
GPS: 43.811, -91.21 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 108,759 total · 675/month
Shared By: Travis Melin on Jun 22, 2007 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

Description

Many years ago Grandad Bluff was known as a somewhat chossy hardman's crag, with only a cluster of 5.12-5.13 routes. A lot has changed over the last several years however, and a bunch of new routes have been bolted by the local crew. Today the crag features almost 40 clean sport lines, most of which fall in the 5.9-5.10d range. A large increase in number of climbers both from local universities, and the surrounding area has help solidify and remove most all of the loose or dirty rock.

Many of the early routes were established by D. Groth in the 90's, new routes have been established by several area climbers including A. Stetzer, F. Skemp, Corey M., S. Tucker, N. Kutcher, and T. Melin. If one were to look hard enough in the surrounding bluffs you'll find that the areas climbing history predates this by quite a while. An unlisted 5.11 route exists on a neighboring bluff that hosts 70's style homemade bolts and hangers. I've always wondered who established this line...

Getting There

Up Bliss Road from town, take a right at the Alpine Inn. Parking for the Meader Wall/Adidas Wall/Mushroom Wall, etc is as shown below in the pics, however please note the cinder block bathroom is no longer there.

In case Bliss Road is washed out (as it usually is lately): Continue past the Bliss road turn off headed south, take a left at the Kmart which is hwy 33 and head up the hill (east) and then a left onto County road F (north, but winds it's way around back west), which then leads you right to Grandads... Alpine Inn will be on your left.

82 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Grandad Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 47
Cockblocker
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 69
A.D.I.D.A.S.
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 65
Randalls One Trick Pony
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 51
Lather Boy
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 49
Seven Bolts for Betty
Sport, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 28
Everything Zen
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 55
Let Your Pimpness Shine
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 25
Wehrmacht Stable
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 50
Patent Pending
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 30
Ride the Donkey
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 13
Yeast of Burden
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 29
Big Man on Campus
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 51
Hawaiian Bill
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 30
Pork Tornado
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 38
Brown Reason to Live
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cockblocker Mushroom Wall
 47
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
A.D.I.D.A.S. Adidas Wall
 69
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Randalls One Trick Pony Adidas Wall
 65
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Lather Boy Adidas Wall
 51
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Seven Bolts for Betty Mushroom Wall
 49
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Everything Zen Adidas Wall
 28
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Let Your Pimpness Shine Adidas Wall
 55
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Wehrmacht Stable Adidas Wall
 25
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Patent Pending Meader Wall
 50
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Ride the Donkey Donkey Punch Wall
 30
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Yeast of Burden Witches Cauldron
 13
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Big Man on Campus Meader Wall
 29
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Hawaiian Bill Meader Wall
 51
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Pork Tornado Meader Wall
 30
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Brown Reason to Live Meader Wall
 38
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
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