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Mt. Barrill

Alaska > Interior Alaska… > Denali NP > Ruth Gorge
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Description

Mnt. Barrill is the northern most peak on the west side of the Ruth Gorge. It's about 2,750' tall from the glacier and hosts and number of routes, most of which are on the impressively steep east side. The most popular and easiest route to the summit is the Japanese Couloir but beware of poor snow conditions if the temperatures have been warm. The Cobra Pillar is becoming a popular rock climbing objective thanks to the release of the new Alaska Supertopo guide, but don't expect this route to go down easy. The success rate on this route is still very low and most parties will take several days to climb it unless they are very strong.

Getting There

The approach to Mnt. Barrill is one of the easiest in the Gorge. If your coming from the Mountain House travel north near the center of the glacier and follow the glacier around to the east and then south into the Ruth Gorge. Be cautious if trying to short cut farther south near Pt. 6000 as there are numerous large crevasses in that area. Staying near the center of the glacier is the safest route. Once in the Gorge continue south past the east face of Barrill until your directly east of the Japanese Couloir and then head west. This is typically the easiest and safest place to cross the crevasse field to Barrill.

Routes from Left to Right

Steep Snow
 11
Japanese Couloir
Snow, Alpine
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1+ Mod. Snow
 3
Cobra Pillar
Trad, Aid, Snow, Alpine 23 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Japanese Couloir
 11
Steep Snow Snow, Alpine
Cobra Pillar
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1+ Mod. Snow Trad, Aid, Snow, Alpine 23 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mnt. Barrill from the southeast.
[Hide Photo] Mnt. Barrill from the southeast.
Mt. Barrill with Mt. Denali in the background
[Hide Photo] Mt. Barrill with Mt. Denali in the background
Mt. Barrill
[Hide Photo] Mt. Barrill
Some good lookin rock at the base of Barrill! The Cobra Pillar is the obvious buttress/pillar sticking out in the upper left.
[Hide Photo] Some good lookin rock at the base of Barrill! The Cobra Pillar is the obvious buttress/pillar sticking out in the upper left.