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Cathedral Peak Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Cathedral Peak

L › R R › L A › Z

	Cave Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Dream Weaver T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Long Gone Bong T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Sea Urchin V2- 5+
	South Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Southeast Chute T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	West Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

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Elevation:	3,000 ft
GPS:	34.4896, -119.7177 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	19,818 total · 97/month
Shared By:	Jeff Dunbar on Jun 11, 2007
Admins:	andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

When it comes to multi-pitch adventure climbing, Cathedral Peak is truly the hidden gem of Santa Barbara (hidden in plain sight!).

Cathedral peak is entirely bolt-free and offers at least 3 different multi-pitch trad lines including the Cave Route (5.6), the South Face (5.7), and a 5.10 face route on the shield to the right of South Face.

In particular, the 3-pitch South Face route is a great low-angle training climb for the moderate trad leader.

The approach hike is strenuous but the scenery is stunning and the climbing is fun and readily protectable. For further info about this wild and scenic formation, including basic route descriptions with FA details and an excellent beta photo, consult the old Steve Tucker / Kevin Steele guidebook ("Climbing! Santa Barbara, Ventura, San Luis Obispo" circa 1992).

Getting There

Cathedral Peak is located approx. 1 mile due south (downhill) from La Cumbre Peak, and getting there is definitely part of the adventure! The 45 minute approach hike is no joke, so bring lots of water and save half a liter per person for the return trip.

By car, take Gibraltar Road all the way up to Camino Cielo and head west (left) until you get to the La Cumbre Peak lookout tower on the left. Park on Camino Cielo and walk uphill through the gate towards the lookout tower. Take the right fork in the loop road just inside the gate.

The trail starts at a spot overlooking the ocean at a point where the loop road takes a sharp turn to the left (there used to be a wooden bench here carved with the names "Christopher and Shannon" on the top rail, but apparently it is gone as of 2016). From the wood bench, head 100 yards downhill towards a prominent pile of rocks, then angle down and right over some class 3 and class 4 terrain to the saddle, then follow the saddle south on a good trail to the top of the ridge with your first view of the crag.

From there, work your way east, skirting just below the summit block via the north side of the ridge, and scramble down the east side gully by way of a short/steep climber's trail to the reach the base of the south face where all the climbs begin.