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Areas in Lee Vining Ice and Mixed

Bard Harrington Wall 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 4
Chouinards 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 4
Heel-Toe Wall 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 2
Main Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 5
Narrows - Left 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 6
Narrows - Right 11 / 2 / 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 13 / 0 / 15

Description

Lee Vining Cascade is a great ice climbing area that is located just outside of Mammoth. There are plenty of routes to climb, from single pitch to three pitch classics such as Chouinards, Spiral Staircase, The Heel Toe, and the Bard Harrington. The area recieves shade pretty much all day and starts forming usaully aroung Early November.

You can go online and type in Lee Vining ice conditions for weekly updates on how fat the ice is. The website is Sierra Mountain Guides and they post conditons for all of the classic routes. It will also tell you how to drive in from where ever you may be. There are a few nice little places in town that you can rent rooms for reasonable prices. One is called Murphys' which I usually prefer because you can get a room with three beds for about 40 to 60 bucks. Make sure you tell them your there to climb because they give ice climber discounts!

Getting There

Lee Vining Cascade is located in the town of, you guessed it, Lee Vining. You can get exact directions on Mapquest.

36 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lee Vining Ice and Mixed

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3
Chouinards' Right
Ice
WI3-4
Main Line
Ice 2 pitches
WI5
Cave Man
Ice 2 pitches
WI4
Center flow
Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4
Bard Harrington
Ice 3 pitches
M4-5
30 Seconds of Remorse
Trad, Mixed
WI3 M3
Tree Route
Trad, Mixed, Ice
WI4 M6
Heel-Toe, Ramp Start
Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
M8 PG13
Jango Fett
Trad, Sport, Mixed
WI5
Zippo's Frozen Booger
Trad, Ice
WI4-
Comrad's Corner
Ice
WI5
Womp Rat
Ice
WI3+
C3PO
Ice
WI4-
Photoshop
Ice
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Barbarians Near the Gate
Trad 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chouinards' Right Chouinards WI3 Ice
Main Line Main Wall WI3-4 Ice 2 pitches
Cave Man Main Wall WI5 Ice 2 pitches
Center flow Main Wall WI4 Ice 2 pitches
Bard Harrington Bard Harrington Wall WI3-4 Ice 3 pitches
30 Seconds of Remorse Narrows - Right > Light-Colored Cliffs > Lower Tier M4-5 Trad, Mixed
Tree Route Chouinards WI3 M3 Trad, Mixed, Ice
Heel-Toe, Ramp Start Heel-Toe Wall WI4 M6 Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
Jango Fett Narrows - Right > Dark-Colored Cliffs M8 PG13 Trad, Sport, Mixed
Zippo's Frozen Booger Narrows - Left WI5 Trad, Ice
Comrad's Corner Chouinards WI4- Ice
Womp Rat Narrows - Left WI5 Ice
C3PO Narrows - Left WI3+ Ice
Photoshop Bard Harrington Wall WI4- Ice
Barbarians Near the Gate Bard Harrington Wall 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 6 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Lee Vining Ice and Mixed »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Viren Perumal
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Viren Perumal   Mammoth Lakes, CA
I will be posting weekly conditions reports in the form of video, Texts, and Photos. If you are getting out ice climbing around this area please feel free to pass along info so I can include in these weekly reports. Check out the Eastern Sierra Ice Conditions Report Here
Sierra Mountain Guides - Eastern Sierra Ice Report Dec 23, 2016
Jackson Yip
San Jose, CA
Jackson Yip   San Jose, CA
There are also ice climbs on the north side of the canyon as well, though they are more alpine style climbing rather than the cragging on the southside. After an outing this past weekend, my climbing partner and I stumbled upon some old fixed gear that looked like something to rap off with. Upon further inspection, that being my yanking on a slinged off rock to check its strength, I snapped the band, my partner and I left some fixed tricams and new slings at 30m intervals. We were new to climbing in LV so we weren't sure if there were any set routes but we climbed the left flow which felt around WI 3-4 with some rock bands and steep snow. The route took about 3/4 rock pro and 2 screws to start on the flow. Watch out for undermined ice, it is plentiful. Raps lines are roughly in line with ascent line; watch for avalanche as this side of the canyon sees sun and heavy spindrift. (Ascent, Jan. 17, 2016)
-JPY Jan 21, 2016
Ian McEleney
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Ian McEleney   Mammoth Lakes, CA
The Guidebook for this area is Eastern Sierra Ice by Robert "SP" Parker: Eastern Sierra Ice, 2nd Edition. A good photo overlay of most of the ice routes can be found here.

PLEASE DON'T CAMP(in a tent, your vehicle, or otherwise) in or near the Poole Power Plant parking. It's not allowed and it jeopardizes access. If you really want to camp out better options exist closer to and on the other side of 395. If you see other folks camping do us all a favor and (kindly) let them know what's up. Jan 17, 2013

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