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Ice Box

S Dakota > Spearfish Canyon

Description

This is a little canyon also know as Hellsgate Gulch. It was one of the first areas developed in Spearfish Canyon. The climbing is good and at one time, some of the climbs you will need a little bit of pro. Now virtually all routes are safely bolted and you can leave the gear at home. Most of the climbs are short and to the point and are worth climbing at least once.

Getting There

Heading south from Spearfish on Alt 14, turn right at Cheyenne Crossing. Drive 2.2 miles, park in a semicircular parking pull off on your left with a wooden bridge crossing the creek. Ice box is the crag you can see across the road.

Routes from Left to Right

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
Fung
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 2
My Brother
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 2
Wide Rider
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 2
Surge
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Ice Cold, No Mistakes
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Shoulda Nona Better
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
It's A Cool Breeze
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Suicide Jack
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Two Kings And A Queen
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
The KlonDyke
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
Frosted Flake
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Cool Whip
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Glacial Facial
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 5
Reaching The Melting Point
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
A Crack In The Ice
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 10
Pular Express
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Polar Baird
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Jumping Jack Frost
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Ice Blocks
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Ice Buckets
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
The Shivering Sphincter
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 2
Nippin' Out
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Cold Or Caliente
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 6
Ya Bud!
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
The Stolen Gem
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Buttress
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Pete' Poach
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 4
Goose Bump
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 2
In The Fro Zone
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
Step Into The Freezer
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
Ice-Sickler
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
Frosty The Throwman
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Ice Chester
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Whore Frost
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Black Ice
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Fung
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
My Brother
 2
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Wide Rider
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Sport
Surge
 2
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Sport
Ice Cold, No Mistakes
 6
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Shoulda Nona Better
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
It's A Cool Breeze
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Suicide Jack
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Two Kings And A Queen
 7
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The KlonDyke
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Frosted Flake
 11
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Cool Whip
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Glacial Facial
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Reaching The Melting Point
 5
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
A Crack In The Ice
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Pular Express
 10
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Polar Baird
 4
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Jumping Jack Frost
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Ice Blocks
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Ice Buckets
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Shivering Sphincter
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Nippin' Out
 2
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Cold Or Caliente
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Ya Bud!
 6
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
The Stolen Gem
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Buttress
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Pete' Poach
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Goose Bump
 4
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
In The Fro Zone
 2
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Step Into The Freezer
 3
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Ice-Sickler
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Frosty The Throwman
 3
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Ice Chester
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Whore Frost
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Black Ice
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ice Box
[Hide Photo] Ice Box
Ice Box routes in The Alcove:<br>
<br>
From left to right:<br>
<br>
Jumping Jack Frost, 5.11c<br>
<br>
Climber is on Ice Blocks, 5.11a<br>
<br>
Ice Buckets, 5.8+<br>
<br>
The Shivering Sphincter, 5.10c<br>
<br>
Nippin' Out, 5.12a
[Hide Photo] Ice Box routes in The Alcove: From left to right: Jumping Jack Frost, 5.11c Climber is on Ice Blocks, 5.11a Ice Buckets, 5.8+ The Shivering Sphincter, 5.10c Nippin' Out, 5.12a
Climbing at The Ice Box in April.
[Hide Photo] Climbing at The Ice Box in April.
Map of Ice Box.<br>
<br>
Correction: It should say South to NewCastle and North to Sunshine and The Danks Parking Lots. The Danks Parking lot would be the first paved parking lot you encounter with Sunshine being the second paved parking lot that is a bit bigger and next to Saunterer's Solitude Cabin
[Hide Photo] Map of Ice Box. Correction: It should say South to NewCastle and North to Sunshine and The Danks Parking Lots. The Danks Parking lot would be the first paved parking lot you encounter with Sunsh…
The slightly south-east facing routes of the left hand side of The Ice Box crag.<br>
<br>
From left to right;<br>
<br>
Fung, 5.12a Bolted overhung boulder problem.<br>
<br>
My Brother, Six bolts of 5.11b climbing.<br>
<br>
Wide Rider, Project,<br>
<br>
Surge, Project<br>
<br>
NEW ROUTE! 5.11c<br>
<br>
Shoulda Nona Better, 5.11a<br>
<br>
NEW ROUTE! 5.10d.<br>
<br>
Suicide Jack, 5.11d. Sandbagged and fun!<br>
<br>
Two Kings and a Queen, 5.11c. Seven bolts of sick, sequential, hold onto your cards climbing!<br>
<br>
The KlonDyke, 5.10a. Fun five ten minus moves on an overhung face to a sweet arete with big holds.<br>
<br>
Frosted Flake, 5.10b. Start on the left side of the flake and stem across to a sick head wall.<br>
<br>
Cool Whip, 5.10b. Moderate movement in the middle of the flake leads to a crux in a blonde streak. Mount the flake and enjoy big holds to the anchors.<br>
<br>
And yes, that sick, overhung boulder that I keep referencing probably has 3 problems that max out at V1.<br>
[Hide Photo] The slightly south-east facing routes of the left hand side of The Ice Box crag. From left to right; Fung, 5.12a Bolted overhung boulder problem. My Brother, Six bolts of 5.11b climbing.…
Lower right hand side south west facing wall of Ice Box.
[Hide Photo] Lower right hand side south west facing wall of Ice Box.
The sign in the parking lot.
[Hide Photo] The sign in the parking lot.
Austin at Ice Box.
[Hide Photo] Austin at Ice Box.
Roadside cragging with great hangs!<br>
Ice Box Rocks!
[Hide Photo] Roadside cragging with great hangs! Ice Box Rocks!
A view of the primo wall at Ice Box.<br>
Contains the classic climbs, Glacial Facial, 5.11a, Reaching the Melting Point, 5.12b, Pular Express, 5.11d, and Polar Baird, 5.12c.
[Hide Photo] A view of the primo wall at Ice Box. Contains the classic climbs, Glacial Facial, 5.11a, Reaching the Melting Point, 5.12b, Pular Express, 5.11d, and Polar Baird, 5.12c.
Ice Box. Flag Ship Wall. South west facing routes located on upper right-hand side of the crag.<br>
<br>
1. Glacial Facial, 5.11a. Sustained. Sequential. Strong moves.<br>
<br>
2. Reaching The Melting Point, 5.12b. Classic climbing! Overhung! A crack start leads to technical pulling to big jugs to a long, sustained crux on technical holds till the end.<br>
<br>
3) Pular Express, 5.11d. Side pull Heaven with a roof from Hell.<br>
<br>
4) Polar Baird, 5.12c. Best for the grade in this immediate area.<br>
<br>
4.1) Sub-Zero Hero. Four bolt kids climb on a short, slabby, black rock. <br>
<br>
4.5) Jumping Jack Frost, 5.11+. Sick undercling to pumpy, huge holds!<br>
<br>
4.75) Ice Buckets, 5.11a. Finger crack to jugs!<br>
<br>
5) Ice Buckets, 5.8. Great beginner climb with HUGE holds and a big pump.<br>
<br>
6) The Shivering Sphincter, 5.10c. A hard start leads to semi-slabby climbing with big moves to big holds.<br>
<br>
6.5) Nippin' Out, 5.12a. Starts near Cold or Caliente and traverses left on wild holds over a sick roof! Shares anchors with The Shivering Sphincter to the left.<br>
<br>
7) Cold Or Caliente, 5.10d. Sick crux moves! Sweet roof pull.
[Hide Photo] Ice Box. Flag Ship Wall. South west facing routes located on upper right-hand side of the crag. 1. Glacial Facial, 5.11a. Sustained. Sequential. Strong moves. 2. Reaching The Melting Point, 5…
Carl crushing Ice Chester, 5.12c
[Hide Photo] Carl crushing Ice Chester, 5.12c

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mikel Cronin
Rapid City, SD
[Hide Comment] What routes were pulled? I know of 2 or 3 on the right side of the draw that were pulled but there should be 3 or 4 on both sides that still have bolts. Aug 4, 2008
[Hide Comment] The general info page reflects an outdated view on the Icebox area. It should be updated to include the caliber of change that has gone on in the area for the past 2 years. It is now an enjoyable place to hang out and climb without the commitment of a long hike. May 10, 2014
BBQ
[Hide Comment] Leave the trad gear in your vehicle. As of this year Ice Box is officially a pure sport climbing area with modern bolts and brand new hardware. May 11, 2014
[Hide Comment] In case anyone is trying to use the directions on this page to actually get to the crag: heading south from spearfish on Alt 14, turn right at Cheyenne Crossing. Drive 2.2 miles, park in a semicircular parking pull off on your left with a wooden bridge crossing the creek. Ice box is the crag you can see across the road. Aug 21, 2016
Le Bob
Lakewood,CO
[Hide Comment] This is across the street from the parking for shadowlands. Sep 10, 2017