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Routes in Elephant's Head

Middle Variant T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Top Rope Routes on "North"/"West" Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trunk - Right Variant, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trunk, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
left variant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Elevation: 2,200 ft
GPS: 44.214, -71.407 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 6,939 total · 50/month
Shared By: Fred Keith on May 23, 2007 with updates from John Halupowski
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Description

One of New Hampshire's pint-sized gems, Elephant's Head is a west facing, 1 pitch dome-like crag situated up and to the right above Rte. 302 just as you go north through Crawford Notch.

Looking back from little Saco Lake after you pass through the notch, it resembles an Elephant's visage with one of NH's classic 1 pitch routes, The Trunk (5.4 - 5.5), heading straight up the broad arete of the trunk following flakes and cracks.

This fun little crag has all the basics: great rock, good pro, a picturesque setting and a quaint quality of exposure and position...right above the road. This of course encourages the requisite tourist rubbernecking and Kodak moments and beginners (and vets) feel heroic as cars pass directly underneath their feet.

An afternoon's suggested outing is leading up one of the "Trunk" routes (5.5 or so) and then throwing a top-rope on some harder moderates down the "cheek / eye" (5.7 - 5.8).

High frequency of climbing school use. The "Trunk" routes use gear anchors in bombproof cracks; the "harder moderates" on the North/West face use a 1/2" bolt, and an older Aluminum-hangered 3/8" that is driven into what is now "hollow rock", so BACK IT UP!

2017- There are 2 new 2 bolt 3/8 SS anchors on top to compliment your gear anchors and old questionable bolt anchors,

Getting There

From North Conway, follow Rte. 302 North - past Attitash Ski Area and the town of Bartlett - continuing into Crawford Notch State Park. About 21 miles past Bartlett, you drive right up through the "notch".

Parking can be found immediately on both the right and the left or near the train station / Saco Lake.

This has one of the shortest approaches on the planet.

The short-steep path to the base starts at a gray-and-white banded boulder on the side of the road just underneath the crag. Step up on the boulder's right side and follow it steeply up and to the base.

Descent:

From the top, descend the well worn trail - part of the AMC Hiking Trail Overlook - back and then down to the left to Saco Lake.

Or...to avoid the scramble back up to your packs, a single rope rap can be down the "cheek" side past a tree and some ledges to the base. (see "North" / "West" top-rope climbs)

A standard rack is good with some modern small gear for lower section. Routes on the "cheek" ("North"/"West") side are sparse and usually TR'ed, although the left-most crack accepts finger-sized-and-smaller nuts and cams; it was led with 2 or 3 pitons in the late 1960's.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Elephant's Head

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 23
the Trunk
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 5
the Trunk - Right Variant
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
left variant
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
the Trunk
 23
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
the Trunk - Right Variant
 5
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
left variant
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
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Photos

john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Really nice, easy climbing Nov 21, 2009
patrick donahue
Bend, OR
patrick donahue   Bend, OR
does anyone know if there is any other climbing here other then these 3 climbs? Oct 23, 2010
Kai Troester
Pepperell, MA
Kai Troester   Pepperell, MA
I believe the GPS coordinates are: 44.213587,-71.40648
If they are added to the area it will show up in the map, which is nice.

maps.google.com/maps?q=44.2… Sep 1, 2011

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