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Routes in Fern Creek Falls

Fall Line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fern Creek Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Land Before Time, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Description

Depending on how you define Fern Buttress and Endless Wall, this area is either the far upstream end of Fern Buttress, or the farthest downstream area of Endless Wall. Since most folks consider the division of Endless and Fern to be Fern Creek, this area is listed under Fern Buttress. Either way, this is one of the most scenic and unique spots at the NRG, a beautiful alcove and waterfall surrounded by mansion-sized boulders, with some excellent RRG-style overhanging jughaul sport routes.
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Getting There

There are several ways to get to Fern Creek Falls. Probably the quickest is to hike the Endless Wall trail for about a mile; just before you cross Fern Creek on the footbridge, look for a faint trail to the right. This will eventually lead you along the clifftop to a rappel point over Star Trek Wall (watch the ends of your ropes, someone was severely injured here a few years ago!). From the base of the cliff, it is an easy couple minute walk climbers right to the Falls area. You can't miss it.

You can also just climb down the Fern Creek ladders from the Endless Wall Trail (see Endless Wall section for detailed directions). From here it is about a 5-10 minute rock-hopping walk climbers' left to the Falls.

If you have a dog, you'll have to make the long hike along the entirety of Fern Buttress (20 minutes or more) to get to the Falls. This is long, but makes for a great addition to any Fern Buttress day.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Fern Creek Falls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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