PRINT: Rock Climbing in Pink Drips Wall, Los Angeles Basin

Pink Drips Wall

California > Los Angeles Basin > Stoney Point

Access Issue: RAIN & WET ROCK Details

Stoney Point sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many gyms in the area if you need a fix!

Description

Shade in the morning and sunny in the afternoon. This wall has some great exposure looking down at Boulder 1 and the road. Home to one of Stoney Point's best top rope face climbs.

Getting There

Walk past B1 boulder towards the Pile Ups boulders. In between these two formations, cut up the hill slightly right of were you would head up for the Jesus Wall. Easy scrambling lead to the base of the wall.

To get to the top to set up the TR, head further towards the Pile Ups and ascend the hill behind them. Once up fairly high, but below the top (at the bottom of Spencer's), head left across a ledge and well worn grass path. There are three glue-in bolts for the anchor, hang the master point over the edge a few feet to avoid friction.

The last person will have to finish their climb then break down the anchor and head down. The remaining people can scramble back down the gully on the left (facing out).

Routes from Left to Right

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 13 ● Pink Drips TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 5 ● Right Hand Route TR

● Pink Drips

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR

● Right Hand Route

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Scott Nomi rappels Pink Drips.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake

The bolts are old rusty 1/4" drive-ins and are not intended for leading on, the are a vesitage from earlier days. This is a top-rope wall. May 13, 2007

Jason Wong
Los Angeles, CA

Went to climb Pink Drips on May 31, 2009 and it looks like the anchor tree was a casualty of the fire last year. Plan accordingly. Jun 1, 2009

Joe Park

gri-gri'd this today. like above poster said, no tree, so had to use three cams and still didn't feel good about it. Feb 9, 2011

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake

Looks like a great candidate for three beefy glue-ins.

I can contribute $40 to this effort. Oct 23, 2011

Bruce Koch

Pink drips has always been one of my favorite climbs at Stoney. I TR soloed it today and it seemed a more difficult than ever before. It seemed to me that there were about three places where there was fairly recent exfoliation near the top. I am not sure if holds were lost in the process, but I have never been unable to finish it before. I finally gave up and used a rope assist in the last 6 to 8 feet. I would be curious if anyone else thinks that this has gotten harder with use and abuse, as many climbs at Stoney often do because of the fragile holds and wearing down of the edges, especially on the steeper crimpy face climbs.

Maybe I am just getting older and haven't climbed enough recently. But not having enough strength is different from not having enough holds. Jan 7, 2018

Jason S

Had a tough time finding this last week. Good to note the directions up top are if you are coming from the back side of Stoney, but the faster way to get here is from the front entrance which is closer to the ranch with horses, then walk past Pileups, turn left around the Amphitheater and follow the south gully trail up. Then turn left around the 2/3 way up to the summit, around the bottom of Spencer's slab.

It mentions and easy scramble to the base of the wall, but I had to climb up a route my book calls Chatsworth Chimey to get onto the ledge. The ledge is about 20' up and it's where we belayed from. It's an easy 5.6 climb, but still a climb not really a scramble. The other side of the ledge looked even worse to get up. I drew some directions on this picture from the roadside, let me know if this looks accurate or if I'm way off. i.imgur.com/x5Q4zNz.jpg Jun 15, 2020

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake

Chatsworth Chimney starts on the same ledge where Pink Drips starts, it's the obvious chimney on the left side of the wall. You can scramble up to the Pink Drips ledge from the bottom, up a shallow gully and crack system with a steep section just before the ledge where the climbs start. But it's a bit exposed and technical (easy 5.0). Jun 16, 2020