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Areas in Lower Sullivan's

Bend and Big Boned Area, The 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Concrete Jungle 18 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Main Wall 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Nursery, The 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Opera House, Hot Spot 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Timmie's East 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 4,324 ft
GPS: 34.863, -112.447 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 11,496 total, 89/month
Shared By: Josh Gross on May 6, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

This is the lead climbing portion of the canyon. Excellent, steep basalt crack climbing. Most routes end at bolt anchors. DO NOT PLACE BOLTS IN THIS CANYON (See Sullivan's Canyon description for reasoning for this bolting restriction)

Getting There

About 5 miles north of Chino Valley and 1/2 mile south of Paulden look for a gas staion (not the one in Paulden) on the west side of the hwy. Across hwy 89 from this station is the north end of Old Highway 89. Turn east onto this road and look for a left turn (east) onto Sweet Valley Road (dirt). Follow this road for one mile and turn right onto an unnamed dirt road. At 2.1 miles keep left passing a gate and continue another .2 miles to a pullout/parking spot. Hike west from the parking area until the canyon comes into view, you will be on the north rim of the canyon. Look for cairns that mark portions of the trail and some of the descents into the canyon. Several drop in points are possible.

53 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Sullivan's

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sidewalk
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sharp End
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leaving the cradle
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mrs Whittaker
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Better Than Mecca
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slipstream
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Teddy Bear
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
911
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Option
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Distant Vision
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Disco Inferno
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wheeler Dealer
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Classic
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sword of Damocles
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bohemian
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sidewalk Concrete Jungle 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Sharp End Nursery 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Leaving the cradle Nursery 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Mrs Whittaker Nursery 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Better Than Mecca Opera House, Hot Spot 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Slipstream Concrete Jungle 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Teddy Bear Nursery 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
911 Nursery 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Easy Option Main Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Distant Vision Concrete Jungle 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Disco Inferno Concrete Jungle 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Wheeler Dealer Opera House, Hot Spot 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Classic Opera House, Hot Spot 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Sword of Damocles Opera House, Hot Spot 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Bohemian Concrete Jungle 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
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Mike A. Lewis
Estes Park, CO
Mike A. Lewis   Estes Park, CO
Here are better directions to Lower Sullivan's: Follow Josh's directions - turn left on Sweet Valley Rd. Set your odometer here to "0". Drive one mile. Turn right onto an unnamed dirt road. At 1.7 miles, just after passing a gate on the right, there is a fork. Take the right fork. At 1.9 miles, park in the small parking area.

Go west and downhill directly out of the parking lot toward the small north-south gully below and you will hopefully see the trail that continues west across the gully and along the rim. Follow this good, obvious trail along the rim for 10 minutes (about .4 miles) to the "Concrete Gully." The trail naturally takes you off the rim into the gully, across the gully, and back into the gully. Downclimb the gully (2nd-3rd class) for 50' or so. The crags are left and right of the bottom of the gully. Nov 11, 2015

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