Elevation: 4,328 ft
GPS: 34.863, -112.447 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 31,803 total · 197/month
Shared By: Josh Gross on May 6, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

This is the lead climbing portion of the canyon. Excellent, steep basalt crack climbing. Most routes end at bolt anchors. DO NOT PLACE BOLTS IN THIS CANYON (See Sullivan's Canyon description for reasoning for this bolting restriction)

Getting There

About 5 miles north of Chino Valley and 1/2 mile south of Paulden look for a gas staion (not the one in Paulden) on the west side of the hwy. Across hwy 89 from this station is the north end of Old Highway 89. Turn east onto this road and look for a left turn (east) onto Sweet Valley Road (dirt). Follow this road for one mile and turn right onto an unnamed dirt road. At 2.1 miles keep left passing a gate and continue another .2 miles to a pullout/parking spot. Hike west from the parking area until the canyon comes into view, you will be on the north rim of the canyon. Look for cairns that mark portions of the trail and some of the descents into the canyon. Several drop in points are possible.

57 Total Climbs

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Location: Lower Sullivan's Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Sullivan's

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Sharp End
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
Mrs Whittaker
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 38
Better Than Mecca
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Teddy Bear
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Mr. Whittaker
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 20
911
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Apple Pie
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
Distant Vision
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 16
Easy Option
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Potluck
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Disco Inferno
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Wheeler Dealer
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 22
Classic
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 16
Sword of Damocles
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 15
Bohemian
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sharp End Nursery
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Mrs Whittaker Nursery
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Better Than Mecca Opera House, Hot Spot
 38
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Teddy Bear Nursery
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Mr. Whittaker Nursery
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
911 Nursery
 20
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Apple Pie Timmie's East
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Distant Vision Concrete Jungle
 15
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Easy Option Main Wall
 16
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Potluck Opera House, Hot Spot
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Disco Inferno Concrete Jungle
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Wheeler Dealer Opera House, Hot Spot
 14
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Classic Opera House, Hot Spot
 22
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Sword of Damocles Opera House, Hot Spot
 16
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Bohemian Concrete Jungle
 15
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Lower Sullivan's »

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