Elevation: 4,577 ft
GPS: 34.873, -112.437 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 25,660 total · 181/month
Shared By: BCramer on May 6, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland
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Description

Basalt lined canyon cut by the Verde River. Steep, dark colored rock with many cracks and pocketed faces. Can be shady or sunny depending on which wall of the canyon you're on. Dark rock can really heat up. Never crowded. Most locals call it Sullies Canyon or just Sullies. There is some good bouldering to be done on the heavily polished blocks that have fallen in the river and alongs its banks. Watch for petroglyphs.
Despite the fact that most of the routes end at bolted rap stations, BOLTING FACE ROUTES IS NOT PERMITTED. The anchor bolts were placed because climbing out above the basalt band is dangerous and would pose a hazard to both climbers and those on the ground due to all the loose rocks. Furthermore, it is felt that adding bolts to create climbs on the narrow faces between the cracks would ruin the crack climbing experience. What face climbs there are can often be top-roped from anchors after leading one of the crack routes. Local climbers prefer that this remain a no bolting area.

Getting There

The canyon is located east of highway 89 north of the city of Chino Valley. It is roughly divided into two sections - Upper Sulivan's and Lower Sullivan's - each area has it's own approach.

70 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sullivan's Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
Sidewalk
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 14
Twin Cracks
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Sharp End
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
Mrs Whittaker
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 35
Better Than Mecca
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Teddy Bear
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 20
911
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
S Crack
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
Distant Vision
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 16
Easy Option
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Potluck
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Disco Inferno
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Wheeler Dealer
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 15
Sword of Damocles
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 12
Bohemian
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sidewalk Lower Sullivan's > Concrete Jungle
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Twin Cracks Upper Sullivan's > Upper Sullie’s S Side
 14
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, TR
Sharp End Lower Sullivan's > Nursery
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Mrs Whittaker Lower Sullivan's > Nursery
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Better Than Mecca Lower Sullivan's > Opera House, Hot Spot
 35
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Teddy Bear Lower Sullivan's > Nursery
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
911 Lower Sullivan's > Nursery
 20
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
S Crack Upper Sullivan's > Upper Sullie’s S Side
 15
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Distant Vision Lower Sullivan's > Concrete Jungle
 13
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Easy Option Lower Sullivan's > Main Wall
 16
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Potluck Lower Sullivan's > Opera House, Hot Spot
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Disco Inferno Lower Sullivan's > Concrete Jungle
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Wheeler Dealer Lower Sullivan's > Opera House, Hot Spot
 14
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Sword of Damocles Lower Sullivan's > Opera House, Hot Spot
 15
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Bohemian Lower Sullivan's > Concrete Jungle
 12
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Sullivan's Canyon »

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Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
Not a destination crag by any measure but a great local spot to hone your skills, especially during the cooler months. Due to the slightly lower elevation than Prescott and the way the canyon traps the sun/heat, it can often be freezing in Prescott and mild in the canyon with no-shirt climbing days in January and February.

Though it can be rough on the hands, the plethora of face holds allows jamming practice with the relief of intermittent face holds. Most climbs are short, but it still gets credit with preparing multiple generations of Prescott area climbers for bigger and better things. A wide variety of cracks and face (top-ropes) from 5.6 to 5.11. Apr 23, 2008
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
Fun place as long as you can ignore the attitude thrown about by the Flagstaff "locals". Feb 6, 2012
J Mo
Tucson, AZ
J Mo   Tucson, AZ
I guess if I knocked an entire town full of climbers in some pouty fit, after a year I'd take the comment down.... Mar 9, 2013
Alexander Parrish
Prescott, Arizona
Alexander Parrish   Prescott, Arizona
I found a pair of prescription glasses in a case yesterday 12/20/14 at one of the walls. If you can tell me what the case looks like and what exact wall I found them by I will get them back to you. Dec 21, 2014
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Well I knew the day would come. I started rearranging the info here for Sullies to try and preserve it, as well as, make it a little more user friendly. It will take a day for the route counts to adjust, and the rest will be a "work in progress" for a bit.

A BIG thanks to Josh Gross for both all his hard work and new routes at the crag over the last twenty some years, and also for helping to sort out all the info here on Mountain Project. Feb 23, 2015