Elevation: 4,577 ft
GPS: 34.873, -112.437 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 44,006 total · 282/month
Shared By: BCramer on May 6, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

Basalt lined canyon cut by the Verde River. Steep, dark colored rock with many cracks and pocketed faces. Can be shady or sunny depending on which wall of the canyon you're on. Dark rock can really heat up. Never crowded. Most locals call it Sullies Canyon or just Sullies. There is some good bouldering to be done on the heavily polished blocks that have fallen in the river and alongs its banks. Watch for petroglyphs.
Despite the fact that most of the routes end at bolted rap stations, BOLTING FACE ROUTES IS NOT PERMITTED. The anchor bolts were placed because climbing out above the basalt band is dangerous and would pose a hazard to both climbers and those on the ground due to all the loose rocks. Furthermore, it is felt that adding bolts to create climbs on the narrow faces between the cracks would ruin the crack climbing experience. What face climbs there are can often be top-roped from anchors after leading one of the crack routes. Local climbers prefer that this remain a no bolting area.

Getting There

The canyon is located east of highway 89 north of the city of Chino Valley. It is roughly divided into two sections - Upper Sulivan's and Lower Sullivan's - each area has it's own approach.

71 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sullivan's Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 14
Twin Cracks
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
Mrs Whittaker
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 37
Better Than Mecca
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Teddy Bear
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 20
911
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Apple Pie
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 16
S Crack
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
Distant Vision
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 16
Easy Option
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Potluck
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Disco Inferno
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Wheeler Dealer
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 22
Classic
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 16
Sword of Damocles
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 15
Bohemian
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Twin Cracks Upper Sullivan's > Upper Sullie’s S Side
 14
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, TR
Mrs Whittaker Lower Sullivan's > Nursery
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Better Than Mecca Lower Sullivan's > Opera House, Hot Spot
 37
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Teddy Bear Lower Sullivan's > Nursery
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
911 Lower Sullivan's > Nursery
 20
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Apple Pie Lower Sullivan's > Timmie's East
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
S Crack Upper Sullivan's > Upper Sullie’s S Side
 16
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Distant Vision Lower Sullivan's > Concrete Jungle
 15
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Easy Option Lower Sullivan's > Main Wall
 16
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Potluck Lower Sullivan's > Opera House, Hot Spot
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Disco Inferno Lower Sullivan's > Concrete Jungle
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Wheeler Dealer Lower Sullivan's > Opera House, Hot Spot
 14
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Classic Lower Sullivan's > Opera House, Hot Spot
 22
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Sword of Damocles Lower Sullivan's > Opera House, Hot Spot
 16
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Bohemian Lower Sullivan's > Concrete Jungle
 15
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Sullivan's Canyon »

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