Elevation: 4,577 ft
GPS: 34.873, -112.437 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 87,576 total · 467/month
Shared By: BCramer on May 6, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman

Description

Basalt lined canyon cut by the Verde River. Steep, dark colored rock with many cracks and pocketed faces. Can be shady or sunny depending on which wall of the canyon you're on. Dark rock can really heat up. Never crowded. Most locals call it Sully's Canyon or just Sully's. There is some good bouldering to be done on the heavily polished blocks that have fallen in the river and alongs its banks. Watch for petroglyphs.

Megs on the onsight

Despite the fact that most of the routes end at bolted rap stations, BOLTING FACE ROUTES IS NOT PERMITTED. The anchor bolts were placed because climbing out above the basalt band is dangerous and would pose a hazard to both climbers and those on the ground due to all the loose rocks. Furthermore, it is felt that adding bolts to create climbs on the narrow faces between the cracks would ruin the crack climbing experience. What face climbs there are can often be top-roped from anchors after leading one of the crack routes. Local climbers prefer that this remain a no bolting area.

Getting There

The canyon is located east of highway 89 north of the city of Chino Valley. It is roughly divided into two sections - Upper Sulivan's and Lower Sullivan's - each area has it's own approach.

105 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Sullivan's Canyon Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Sullivan's Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 18
Twin Cracks
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 22
Mrs Whittaker
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 42
Better Than Mecca
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Teddy Bear
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Coffin Crack
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 23
911
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 20
S Crack
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 20
Distant Vision
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 17
Easy Option
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
Wheeler Dealer
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 22
Classic
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Disco Inferno
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Lord of the Flies
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 19
Sword of Damocles
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 17
Bohemian
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Twin Cracks Upper Sullivan's > Upper Sullie’s S Side
 18
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Mrs Whittaker Lower Sullivan… > Nursery
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Better Than Mecca Lower Sullivan… > Opera House, Hot Spot
 42
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Teddy Bear Lower Sullivan… > Nursery
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Coffin Crack Upper Sullivan's > Upper Sullie’s S Side
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
911 Lower Sullivan… > Nursery
 23
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
S Crack Upper Sullivan's > Upper Sullie’s S Side
 20
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Distant Vision Lower Sullivan… > Concrete Jungle
 20
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Easy Option Lower Sullivan… > Main Wall
 17
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Wheeler Dealer Lower Sullivan… > Opera House, Hot Spot
 16
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Classic Lower Sullivan… > Opera House, Hot Spot
 22
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Disco Inferno Lower Sullivan… > Concrete Jungle
 12
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Lord of the Flies Lower Sullivan… > Lower Sullivan'… > Wailers Wall
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Sword of Damocles Lower Sullivan… > Opera House, Hot Spot
 19
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Bohemian Lower Sullivan… > Concrete Jungle
 17
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Sullivan's Canyon »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos