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Routes in Cleopatra's Needle Area

Angel Wing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3
Angel Wing- Oreo Girls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 X
Cleopatra's Needle, East Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Navajo Needle West Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2
Venus Needle, East Face ("Putterman's Corner") T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1-2 PG13
Venus Needle, West Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3
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Elevation: 7,330 ft
GPS: 35.962, -108.985 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 7,050 total · 51/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 5, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
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Access Issue: Closed. Details

Description

This area in on the border of Arizona and New Mexico, about 17 miles north of Fort Defiance, (Which is north of Gallup, New Mexico). There are 4 major spires in the area; Cleopatra's Needle (Which could very well be the skinnest spire in the world), Venus Needle, Navajo Needle, and Angel Wing.

Getting There

Drive north from Fort Defiance for about 17 miles to this area. Angel Wing is the only spire visible from the main road;... the others are back on dirt roads to the east.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cleopatra's Needle Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
 6
Cleopatra's Needle, East Face
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cleopatra's Needle, East Face
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
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The East Face of Cleos, the West Face of Venus Needle, the West Buttress of Navajo Needle (the classic routes on each of these three towers) all go clean. No pitons needed.
1. Cleos, (via the original direct line) is about C2 or C2+, bring LOTS of med-large stoppers (some may be hard to clean).
2. Venus Needle West Face C2, crux leaving the first belay with awkward stemming and/or awkward big cams;
3. Navajo Needle West Face C2. One or two thin crack sections now have pin scars that take good nuts. Mostly, expect cams, 2-6"

Fixed gear at belays on these routes is old and may need replacement, but, as of 2015, NO pitons needed for aid on these routes! These might well go entirely free, but not to a geriatric has-been like me.

Be sure to talk to member of the Diné Rock Climbers Coalition first. Respect for the locals and the local climbing community goes a long way toward ensuring a good climb and continued access, good people! Huge thanks to Alex and Quentin for all their help.
facebook.com/groups/1362588… Oct 11, 2015

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