PRINT: Rock Climbing in Elephant Butte, Southeast Utah

Elephant Butte

Utah > Southeast Utah > Arches NP

Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions Details

Check Raptor closure status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/…

Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

This is the high point of Arches National Park, at 5,653 feet. I doubt if this butte gets climbed too often, but for high point seekers, it's a good adventure.

The high point is marked by a USGS marker at the peak, there's a summit book too. You park at that parking lot. There is a fun canyoneering route that goes through the butte with an optional summit detour. 2 rappels and some 5.4 slab scrambles that can be protected if people want it.

Getting There

Start at the Garden of Eden / Owl Rock parking lot. The butte is over by the windows area...down the road.

Routes from Left to Right

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A1 2 ● North Gorge Route Trad, Aid
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a 256 ● Standard (West Fins) Trad

● North Gorge Route

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A1 Trad, Aid

● Standard (West Fins)

256

5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Summit view southeast to the La Sals. October 2012

First Rappel - from the bottom

Bench Mark

First Rappel

Final Rappel

Steve Swanke and friend at the summit of Arche's High Point; Elephant Butte. Photo: Todd Gordon

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

George Bell
Boulder, CO

Indeed I believe Elephant Butte is the highest point in Arches National Park. Gerry Roach has a new guidebook coming out on climbing the highest point in each National Park. Look for it ... May 7, 2007

Aaron Ihinger
Ridgway,CO

Just ventured here for the first time. Fun adventure to a promiment place to be sure, but a 5.4,A1 rating is way over the top. Let's call it a stiff scramble worthy of a short belay at the crux with some route finding along the way and a couple of rappels. More of a canyoneering trek than a climb... I'll go as far as a 5.2 rating, but that's tops. Just do it, it's a N.P. highpoint for goodness sake! if you need any aid at all, it's just some good beta so as not to get lost and frustrated. As with all sandstone canyoneering, take your harness off when not rappelling and it will serve you far longer. A 60M rope is nice for the spiral approach rappel (but not necessary), because it can get pinched and require an upclimb to retrieve it anyway and a 30M rope is more than enough for the free rappel on the way out. Dec 4, 2009

Matt Pesce
moab, ut.

We did the Standard route on 10/2/18 and found that the 1st rappel station had been moved. I'm not sure why...anchor is set back from the edge, ensuring new rope grooves and with a single ring also ensures that the rope pull on a flat surface will increase the friction. Awkward bulge near the start...
New bolts require a process with the Park mgmt.
Was this a park project ? Oct 2, 2018

Brenden McGarrity
Norwich, CT

video of route: youtube.com/watch?v=Z2ds5u4… Feb 9, 2022

Tracy Woodburn
Full Time RVer

This hike/climb/canyoneering route is a blast. Pretty much a roadside attraction. It only takes 10 minutes to get to the entry point. There are some exposed spots but nothing crazy. My lady and I have done this twice and will definitely do it again. Here is a video of our experience --- youtube.com/watch?v=Sf5hhgn… Feb 15, 2022