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Routes in Elephant Butte

North Gorge Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A1
Standard (West Fins) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is the high point of Arches National Park, at 5,653 feet. I doubt if this butte gets climbed too often, but for high point seekers, it's a good adventure.

The high point is marked by a USGS marker at the peak, there's a summit book too. You park at that parking lot. There is a fun canyoneering route that goes through the butte with an optional summit detour. 2 rappels and some 5.4 slab scrambles that can be protected if people want it.

Getting There

Start at the Garden of Eden / Owl Rock parking lot. The butte is over by the windows area...down the road.

2 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Elephant Butte

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 105
Standard (West Fins)
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Standard (West Fins)
 105
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad
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George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Indeed I believe Elephant Butte is the highest point in Arches National Park. Gerry Roach has a new guidebook coming out on climbing the highest point in each National Park. Look for it ... May 7, 2007
Aaron Ihinger
Ridgway,CO
Aaron Ihinger   Ridgway,CO
Just ventured here for the first time. Fun adventure to a promiment place to be sure, but a 5.4,A1 rating is way over the top. Let's call it a stiff scramble worthy of a short belay at the crux with some route finding along the way and a couple of rappels. More of a canyoneering trek than a climb... I'll go as far as a 5.2 rating, but that's tops. Just do it, it's a N.P. highpoint for goodness sake! if you need any aid at all, it's just some good beta so as not to get lost and frustrated. As with all sandstone canyoneering, take your harness off when not rappelling and it will serve you far longer. A 60M rope is nice for the spiral approach rappel (but not necessary), because it can get pinched and require an upclimb to retrieve it anyway and a 30M rope is more than enough for the free rappel on the way out. Dec 4, 2009

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