Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Elephant Butte

North Gorge Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A1
Standard (West Fins) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Elevation: 5,644 ft
GPS: 38.696, -109.54 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 16,760 total · 120/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 4, 2007 with updates from Burke Minahan
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is the high point of Arches National Park, at 5,653 feet. I doubt if this butte gets climbed too often, but for high point seekers, it's a good adventure.

The high point is marked by a USGS marker at the peak, there's a summit book too. You park at that parking lot. There is a fun canyoneering route that goes through the butte with an optional summit detour. 2 rappels and some 5.4 slab scrambles that can be protected if people want it.

Getting There

Start at the Garden of Eden / Owl Rock parking lot. The butte is over by the windows area...down the road.

2 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Elephant Butte Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Elephant Butte

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 112
Standard (West Fins)
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Standard (West Fins)
 112
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Elephant Butte »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Indeed I believe Elephant Butte is the highest point in Arches National Park. Gerry Roach has a new guidebook coming out on climbing the highest point in each National Park. Look for it ... May 7, 2007
Aaron Ihinger
Ridgway,CO
Aaron Ihinger   Ridgway,CO
Just ventured here for the first time. Fun adventure to a promiment place to be sure, but a 5.4,A1 rating is way over the top. Let's call it a stiff scramble worthy of a short belay at the crux with some route finding along the way and a couple of rappels. More of a canyoneering trek than a climb... I'll go as far as a 5.2 rating, but that's tops. Just do it, it's a N.P. highpoint for goodness sake! if you need any aid at all, it's just some good beta so as not to get lost and frustrated. As with all sandstone canyoneering, take your harness off when not rappelling and it will serve you far longer. A 60M rope is nice for the spiral approach rappel (but not necessary), because it can get pinched and require an upclimb to retrieve it anyway and a 30M rope is more than enough for the free rappel on the way out. Dec 4, 2009
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
We did the Standard route on 10/2/18 and found that the 1st rappel station had been moved. I'm not sure why...anchor is set back from the edge, ensuring new rope grooves and with a single ring also ensures that the rope pull on a flat surface will increase the friction. Awkward bulge near the start...
New bolts require a process with the Park mgmt.
Was this a park project ? Oct 2, 2018

More About Elephant Butte

Printer-Friendly
What's New
Guidebooks (8)

All Photos Within Elephant Butte (37)

Most Popular · Newest · Random