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Routes in Sunshine Buttress

Colostrum T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Criminal Minds S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mango Boingo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mother's Milk S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Original Crankster, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Syndicate Fool S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unbroken Chain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whores in Church S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
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Description [Edit]

Drive across the New River Gorge Bridge and look downstream. See that prominent orange buttress on river left, sticking out of the trees? That's Sunshine Buttress, a small, quality, easily approached pocket of Nuttall Sandstone goodness! Despite its close proximity, you are not likely to encounter crowds here, due to a lack of easier routes.

The best lines here like Unbroken Chain (12a), Whores in Church (13c), and Mother's Milk (12d) are clustered around the impressive prow that juts high over the Fayette Station Road. The left side of the prow gets morning sun and afternoon shade, right side is vice versa. Left of Unbroken Chain, the cliffline keeps going for quite a ways, but the routes are not as quality.

Right of Mother's Milk is a fairly easy scramble to the top of the cliff, where you will be treated to one of the best views in the New River Gorge.

Getting There [Edit]

Although this buttress is barely a stone's throw from Fayetteville, getting there is kind of a pain, due to the Fayette Station Road being one-way. Drive past the National Park's visitor center and down into the gorge as if approaching Bridge Buttress, switching back all the way down to the bottom of the gorge to Fayette Station. Drive across the river, and switch back up and out of the gorge.

A bit over a half mile after passing under the New River Gorge Bridge, you'll see a large pull-out on the right, just before the road turns left away from the gorge. Park here, cross the road, and scramble up the faint climber's trail directly to Mother's Milk area.

If you have bikes or don't mind walking, you can drive in from the Fayetteville side. Driving north from town on 19, take a left at the last intersection before the bridge. Drive about a mile down this road until you seen signs marking the beginning of it being one-way. Park here and walk or ride about another mile to Sunshine Buttress.

DO NOT drive the wrong way down this road, especially during tourist season! Rafting company buses and trucks frequent the narrow route, and you do not want to run into one.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sunshine Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 13
Unbroken Chain
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Unbroken Chain
 13
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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