Sunshine Buttress Rock Climbing
|GPS:||38.075, -81.089 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||5,900 total · 37/month|
|Shared By:||Ladd Raine on Apr 11, 2007|
|Admins:||Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones|
The best lines here like Unbroken Chain (12a), Whores in Church (13c), and Mother's Milk (12d) are clustered around the impressive prow that juts high over the Fayette Station Road. The left side of the prow gets morning sun and afternoon shade, right side is vice versa. Left of Unbroken Chain, the cliffline keeps going for quite a ways, but the routes are not as quality.
Right of Mother's Milk is a fairly easy scramble to the top of the cliff, where you will be treated to one of the best views in the New River Gorge.
A bit over a half mile after passing under the New River Gorge Bridge, you'll see a large pull-out on the right, just before the road turns left away from the gorge. Park here, cross the road, and scramble up the faint climber's trail directly to Mother's Milk area.
If you have bikes or don't mind walking, you can drive in from the Fayetteville side. Driving north from town on 19, take a left at the last intersection before the bridge. Drive about a mile down this road until you seen signs marking the beginning of it being one-way. Park here and walk or ride about another mile to Sunshine Buttress.
DO NOT drive the wrong way down this road, especially during tourist season! Rafting company buses and trucks frequent the narrow route, and you do not want to run into one.
Classic Climbing Routes at Sunshine Buttress
Days w Precip