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Routes in (A1) Utopian Vista Upper Tier

(18) S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
(19) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Adios Compadres T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aldous T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Baba Ram Dass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Be Here Now T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bitch Slapped S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Mamba S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brave New World T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brown Berets T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chile Line S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Debt Ceiling S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fourth of You Lie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Good Times... Are Killing Me!, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Humpty Ass T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
I Came As A Rat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
LSD S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Man... Who Killed The Deer!, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Man...Who Brought the Gear!, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meltdown T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Modest Mouse T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monarch Migration T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monkey Wretch Gang, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
One Chance... To Get Everything Right S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Oppie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pyrocumulonimbus T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Smoke Signals T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sons & Lovers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thin Places T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tsunami T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Walking Rain S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
We All Float On S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Welcome to Utopia S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whitey on the Moon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zipper Club T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Description

Short, steep cragging above the Rio Grande at the gorge rim. The first significant wall you come to after hiking along the rim from Dead Cholla. Some anchors easily accessed from the lip.

Getting There

From the Dead Cholla parking area...head up river along the dirt track above the cliff band. Go less than a mile passing the Panoramic Cliff (obvious anchors on the top of a cliff).

Travel about fifty yards past the clifftop with anchors and then through a wash. Look for cairns and then drop right and down to the upper cliff band.

To reach the lower cliff band. Hug the upper cliff band for 60 yards. about 100 feet past Black Mamba go right and down on a faint trail follow cairns to the lower band.

35 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Utopian Vista Upper Tier

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Brown Berets
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
LSD
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Modest Mouse
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Black Mamba
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Brown Berets
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
LSD
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Modest Mouse
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Black Mamba
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Utopian Vista Upper Tier »

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