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Mica Mines Wall? (or Bang's Canyon Sport Cliff) Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Mica Mines Wall? (or Bang's Canyon Sport Cliff)

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bang and Blame S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Big Bang S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Big Fat Weiners S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Blackhole V7 7A+
	Boom Styxs S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
	Choss Master S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Less Choss More Curt S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Liquid Charcoal S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Proper Grammar V6+ 7A
	Pumping Jesus S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	She Bangs S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Unknown (.13-) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Unknown (Water Boy) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Wormhole V5-6 6C+

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Elevation:	6,259 ft
GPS:	38.97812, -108.6322 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	28,695 total · 146/month
Shared By:	Skyeler Congdon on Mar 24, 2007
Admins:	Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

Description

This is Grand Junction's only bona fide sport crag! Just up the trail from the mica mine in Bang's Canyon lies a VERY steep, little crag with about 8 or 9 routes. These routes are HARD. There is one 11a warm-up (locals have been known to call it 10d...), but everything else is 12a-13c. (EDIT: There is also a 10b that went up recently.)

At first glance, the rocks seems like total choss, but the two routes I've done so far were both great. This is a superb training crag due to the steepness and technical nature of the climbing. Best of all, this crag sits in a BEAUTIFUL canyon complete with waterfall and afternoon shade.

Getting There

To reach from Grand Jct., turn off Broadway (CO highway 340) onto Rim Rock Drive (the way to the CNM) and go 1 block, then turn left on to D Road, which soon turns into Rosevale Rd. and leads to CS Road (aka Little Park Road). Follow CS Road for approximately 5 miles (8km) to the turnoff to Rough and Bangs Canyons at the first left after the crest of the hill. This is also the trailhead to the Tabeguache Trail. Park at the gravel parking area and hike 1/4 mile (0.4 km) southwest on a rough road to a small canyon. Turn right (Left is Rough Canyon) and walk for 20-30 minutes. Soon you will reach an old mica mine (giant white cave). From there, it's just another 50 meters on the right.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mica Mines Wall? (or Bang's Canyon Sport Cliff)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 25 ● Less Choss More Curt Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 24 ● Choss Master Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 18 ● Big Fat Weiners Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 5 ● She Bangs Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 12 ● Bang and Blame Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 18 ● Pumping Jesus Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 14 ● Liquid Charcoal Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 3 ● Unknown (Water Boy) Sport