Elevation: 6,259 ft
GPS: 38.978, -108.632 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 23,740 total · 137/month
Shared By: Skyeler Congdon on Mar 24, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Jesse Zacher, Monomaniac, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Tyler KC, Jared LaVacque

Description

This is Grand Junction's only bona fide sport crag! Just up the trail from the mica mine in Bang's Canyon lies a VERY steep, little crag with about 8 or 9 routes. These routes are HARD. There is one 11a warm-up (locals have been known to call it 10d...), but everything else is 12a-13c. (EDIT: There is also a 10b that went up recently.)

At first glance, the rocks seems like total choss, but the two routes I've done so far were both great. This is a superb training crag due to the steepness and technical nature of the climbing. Best of all, this crag sits in a BEAUTIFUL canyon complete with waterfall and afternoon shade.

Getting There

To reach from Grand Jct., turn off Broadway (CO highway 340) onto Rim Rock Drive (the way to the CNM) and go 1 block, then turn left on to D Road, which soon turns into Rosevale Rd. and leads to CS Road (aka Little Park Road). Follow CS Road for approximately 5 miles (8km) to the turnoff to Rough and Bangs Canyons at the first left after the crest of the hill. This is also the trailhead to the Tabeguache Trail. Park at the gravel parking area and hike 1/4 mile (0.4 km) southwest on a rough road to a small canyon. Turn right (Left is Rough Canyon) and walk for 20-30 minutes. Soon you will reach an old mica mine (giant white cave). From there, it's just another 50 meters on the right.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bang's Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 20
Less Choss More Curt
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 18
Choss Master
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 13
Big Fat Weiners
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
She Bangs
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 9
Bang and Blame
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 12
Pumping Jesus
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 12
Liquid Charcoal
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Less Choss More Curt
 20
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Choss Master
 18
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Big Fat Weiners
 13
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
She Bangs
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bang and Blame
 9
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Pumping Jesus
 12
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Liquid Charcoal
 12
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Bang's Canyon »

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