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Routes in Greatest Bluff

Gay Gigolo V2 5+
Imp Act V1 5
Shark's Fin Arete V2+ 5+
Slippery Seam V4 6B
Stinky Feesh V3 6A
Wiceps V1 5
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Description

Some of the only sandstone bouldering at the Lake. Fun movement on moderate problems make this a great addition to any trip to the Lake.

Rock quality is noticeably better than that of the Greatest Show boulder.

Getting There

Park at the North Shore and follow the East Bluff Trail, walking to the top of the bluff and south, then cutting down to the east along the trail just north of Tomahawk Rock. Tomahawk Rock is just above Sunny and 60's if that landmark helps anyone.

Please do not approach along the social trail that cuts left at the cave. The Park is planning to close this section of social trail.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Greatest Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 51
Imp Act
Boulder
V2 5+
 38
Gay Gigolo
Boulder
V2+ 5+
 36
Shark's Fin Arete
Boulder
V3 6A
 14
Stinky Feesh
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Imp Act
 51
V1 5 Boulder
Gay Gigolo
 38
V2 5+ Boulder
Shark's Fin Arete
 36
V2+ 5+ Boulder
Stinky Feesh
 14
V3 6A Boulder
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I was having trouble finding this the last time I was at DL. So would this be off the East Bluff Woods Trail? About how far from the split between the woods and the bluff trail is this? Jun 21, 2016
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
The easiest approach is not from the east bluff woods trail. Walk up the east bluff trail (from the north shore) and where the cave is and the trail goes up steps to the right you stay left and follow the secondary trail around the bluff to the left, away from the lake. You will find this bluff after maybe 5 minutes.

As with many areas at Devils Lake, you can approach from any direction, but what I posted above is the quickest IMO.


Do not follow the above advice. I edited the main description to reflect what the Park would like us to do to approach this sensitive area. See Peter's comment below this one (madisonchoss). Jun 21, 2016
We are currently evaluating ways to reduce traffic (mostly non climber) on the social trail described above. For now, refrain from approaching this way by walking to the top of the bluff and cutting down to the east along the trail just north of Tomahawk Rock. May 4, 2017
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
We'll want to put up a sign there, telling people how they *should* access these boulders. May 5, 2017
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
It sounds like the park is planning on putting signs up. May not be "how to access the boulders" but more like "this area closed, trail goes up and right". And we can access the boulders the way now listed above. May 5, 2017

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