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Armed and Dangerous (Main Cliff Left)

New Hampshire > Rumney

Description

A short walk from the main area of Main Cliff, this wall is a sub-section of Main Cliff that deserves its own description.
I've titled the description after its most popular route, Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication (5.10b), one of many worthwhile climbs in this section. This area has seen many new routes and a few retro-bolted routes since the last guidebook was published. The climbing is varied but typically pumpy and encountering steepness somewhere on the route. Yet another wall of awesome 5.10s (and more) without having to hike your butt off.... gotta love Rumney.

Other than Armed and Dangerous (the full name is rarely uttered in decent conversation), some great routes are, Cereal Killer (5.11c), Scene of the Crime (5.10a), Sesame Street (5.10c, recently fully bolted) and more.

Look for signs as to whether this section is closed for nesting peregrines in the spring and summer.

Getting There

From Main Cliff proper, hike left/west along the cliff base climbing down a steep section of trail and up a little till you see the cliff most note worth will be the overhang atop the slab and the cave under Cereal Killer.

Routes from Left to Right

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 219
Rainbow
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 237
Men In White Suits
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 36
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 9
Brendan's Bitches
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 106
Bonnie and Clyde
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 261
The Anchovy Caper
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 84
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner)
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 76
Flying Squirrel
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5-
 81
Fish Corner
Sport, Boulder
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 293
Green Mile
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 152
Mentally Disturbed
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
Juicy Fingers
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 18
Maria's Variation
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 446
Scene of the Crime
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 21
Climb and Punishment
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 279
Cereal Killer
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 947
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My…
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 357
Clusterphobia
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 844
Metamorphosis
Sport
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 9
Slack
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 1
Barbershop Duet
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 179
Mitosis
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 11
Mesresha
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 388
Sesame Street
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 365
The Big Easy
Sport 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 11
The White Buttress
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Greener Pastures
Sport 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 39
Bourbon Street
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 8
Slick
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 13
Cloud Atlas
Sport 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 325
Toxic Gumbo
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Boats from Cuba
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 256
Arugula, Arugula
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 160
Far From Feral
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 237
The Maltese Falcon
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rainbow
 219
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Men In White Suits
 237
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelso…
 36
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Brendan's Bitches
 9
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Bonnie and Clyde
 106
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Anchovy Caper
 261
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner)
 84
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Flying Squirrel
 76
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Fish Corner
 81
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5- Sport, Boulder
Green Mile
 293
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Mentally Disturbed
 152
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Juicy Fingers
 11
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Maria's Variation
 18
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Scene of the Crime
 446
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Climb and Punishment
 21
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Cereal Killer
 279
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Armed and Dangerous, and Of…
 947
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Clusterphobia
 357
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Metamorphosis
 844
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Slack
 9
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Barbershop Duet
 1
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad
Mitosis
 179
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Mesresha
 11
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Sesame Street
 388
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Big Easy
 365
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 2 pitches
The White Buttress
 11
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Greener Pastures
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 3 pitches
Bourbon Street
 39
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Slick
 8
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Cloud Atlas
 13
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport 2 pitches
Toxic Gumbo
 325
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Boats from Cuba
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Arugula, Arugula
 256
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Far From Feral
 160
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Maltese Falcon
 237
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hang in there for the clip. Or fall. It's clean air so feel free to get some of the willies out if you're new to leading 5.10b
[Hide Photo] Hang in there for the clip. Or fall. It's clean air so feel free to get some of the willies out if you're new to leading 5.10b
This area has changed a bit since the last guidef the thr routes currently there... not perfect but it should help you find your way...
[Hide Photo] This area has changed a bit since the last guidef the thr routes currently there... not perfect but it should help you find your way...
Picture of A&D wall and A&D(Middle right of the image)
[Hide Photo] Picture of A&D wall and A&D(Middle right of the image)
Clusterphobia and Metamorphosis share three bolts and can both be climbed at the same time if necessary.
<br>

<br>
Mitosis has an independent set of bolts, although it does share the first 20 feet or so of climbing as Metamophosis and Clusterphobia.
[Hide Photo] Clusterphobia and Metamorphosis share three bolts and can both be climbed at the same time if necessary. Mitosis has an independent set of bolts, although it does share the first 20 feet or so o…
The lines of A&D
[Hide Photo] The lines of A&D
Armed and Dangerous and Drunk Off Medication? To each their own but a keg may be a step to far. Hope no one had to be carried off the mountain that day.
[Hide Photo] Armed and Dangerous and Drunk Off Medication? To each their own but a keg may be a step to far. Hope no one had to be carried off the mountain that day.
Old piton sticking font and center, a shiny bolt down and to its right, and just out of sight on the other side of the short pine / bushes lies a chain link anchor.  Where am I?
[Hide Photo] Old piton sticking font and center, a shiny bolt down and to its right, and just out of sight on the other side of the short pine / bushes lies a chain link anchor. Where am I?

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
[Hide Comment] thanks for all the added info on the new routes in this area Mark... Nov 28, 2007
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
[Hide Comment] Hannah see the lost and found section of the forums i think you will find the lost clothing through there.

Hannah I sent you an email with the persons email, hope you find the jacket Oct 26, 2009
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
[Hide Comment] There is a white buttress at the top of this cliff. When you climb all the pitches of The Big Easy you finish right below it, are there any climbs that go through this buttress? It looks like it could be cool. Aug 11, 2010
M Sprague
New England
[Hide Comment] Yes. That is where Slick originally finished. It is my understanding from talking to Tim Gotwols, that he did the FA of that pitch. It follows a seam diagonaling up and right using gear and a pin or two. I have only TRed it in my boots while rapping in to do stuff below, but it seemed about 9+, pumpy and the gear is not very good. He OKed retroing it and since the middle pitch got obliterated when the big flake came off, I thought it would make a great finish for The Big Easy. I have not had a chance to do the retro job (it's turning into a multi year project) as it is up high over everybody and it is hard to find a time to do it when nobody is below. I am hoping to get to it later in the year when other cliffs that I am working on have closed in for the season Aug 11, 2010
[Hide Comment] A 3-pitch moderate route all the way up to the top of that white buttress would be fantastic. Stellar. It sounds like one can assess this pitch from Sesame Street, P2 of Big Easy, or Bourbon Street, right?

I really miss P2 of Rock du Jour. Great pitch. Aug 11, 2010
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
[Hide Comment] After pitch one of The Big Easy, you get some fun moves which branch either to Bourbon Street or up to the top of Sesame Street. I believe the new guidebook calls the short scamper to the top of Sesame Street pitch 2 of The Big Easy. You can easily climb the first half of Sesame Street and pop up onto the ledge after the first pitch of The Big Easy... but you'll miss the best part of Sesame Street (in my opinion).

The pitch above Sesame Street ("pitch 3" on The Big Easy) is pretty easy ground. It wouldn't be too difficult to traverse over to the crux of Bourbon Street and continue up the easy ground which follows that. Both routes can give you access to the white buttress above.

With all the bolts below... it's kind of odd to drag up a light trad rack for the final pitch up the white buttress, but oh well. I bet no one would miss 3 or 4 bolts from the top half of Bourbon Street if they were moved. :) Nonetheless, fun to get above the often crowded area below. Aug 12, 2010
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
[Hide Comment] I noticed that there are 3 new routes on the far right side of this cliff. 2 of them are listed on MP, but there seems to be another 5.10 as well. I'm not sure if the one listed (Far From Feral) is the left 5.10 or the right 5.10 of the two. Does anyone have any information? May 30, 2012
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
[Hide Comment] I was asked to post the 2 routes that were complete...
if you read the description for Far From Feral it explains that there is to be a variation start to the right... this is said to be a good bit easier...

so for all practical purposes the info is all here, enjoy! May 30, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
[Hide Comment] What I did was a completely different climb about 10 feet over from Far From Feral. If a completely separate route is considered a variation... well, OK, but that seems odd to me. Jun 1, 2012
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
[Hide Comment] just telling you what was reported to me... 3 new lines added, the right being independent the two on the left starting 10 feet apart and sharing their easy finish... if you have better or different info please post it up... Jun 2, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
[Hide Comment] You got it, Lee, thanks!

EDIT: I was contacted by the person who put up these routes, and they will be handling it. Thanks! Jun 4, 2012
[Hide Comment] Not sure if an answer to this is listed elsewhere but there is a 3 bolt to anchor route to the left of Anchovy Caper, anyone know the rating for this/what this is called? Nov 19, 2012
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
[Hide Comment] Yeah I would say Bonnie and Clyde and it goes at 5.8.

P.S. IS this the Ben I met at Lago the other night while I was working? If so how was you trip? Nov 19, 2012
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
[Hide Comment] yup thats bonnie and clyde... one of the bolts is hard to see from the ground... might have been why you thought there were only 3... Nov 19, 2012
[Hide Comment] Ah yep that was certainly the route we really enjoyed that one!

And yes Matt! Thanks for the warm welcome!! We had a blast but we're still getting a feel for the outdoors. Been tackling every 5.8 and 9 we see and we're gonna ramp it up to 10a/b the weekend after turkey day! Slow and steady since we still quite green :) Nov 20, 2012
Caleb Ladue
Vt, Charlotte
[Hide Comment] Found some P cord underneath The Anchovy Caper. If was underneath a little overhang. If it's yours message me and I'll return it as it looked pretty new. Otherwise great booty find! Apr 3, 2014
Tyson Miller
Lebanon, NH
[Hide Comment] Anyone have info on the new climb right of metamorphosis, it was super fun! Mar 9, 2016
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
[Hide Comment] The new route is by Chris smith. I was going to post it but I forget what he is calling it. We will get it up here soon. I agree it is super fun! Mar 11, 2016