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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left) Rock Climbing


Routes in Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)

Anchovy Caper, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arugula, Arugula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbershop Duet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Big Easy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boats from Cuba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie and Clyde S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brendan's Bitches T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cereal Killer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Atlas S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Clusterphobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far From Feral S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fish Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5-
Flying Squirrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Mile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juicy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maltese Falcon, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maria's Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Men In White Suits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mentally Disturbed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mesresha S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Metamorphosis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rainbow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scene of the Crime S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sesame Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slick T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Toxic Gumbo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buttress, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Description

A short walk from the main area of Main Cliff, this wall is a sub-section of Main Cliff that deserves its own description.
I've titled the description after its most popular route, Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication (5.10b), one of many worthwhile climbs in this section. This area has seen many new routes and a few retro-bolted routes since the last guidebook was published. The climbing is varied but typically pumpy and encountering steepness somewhere on the route. Yet another wall of awesome 5.10s (and more) without having to hike your butt off.... gotta love Rumney.

Other than Armed and Dangerous (the full name is rarely uttered in decent conversation), some great routes are, Cereal Killer (5.11c), Scene of the Crime (5.10a), Sesame Street (5.10c, recently fully bolted) and more.

Look for signs as to whether this section is closed for nesting peregrines in the spring and summer.

Getting There

From Main Cliff proper, hike left/west along the cliff base climbing down a steep section of trail and up a little till you see the cliff most note worth will be the overhang atop the slab and the cave under Cereal Killer.

34 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 128
Rainbow
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 194
The Big Easy
Sport 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 177
Toxic Gumbo
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 166
The Anchovy Caper
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 131
The Maltese Falcon
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 448
Metamorphosis
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 145
Men In White Suits
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 184
Green Mile
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 257
Scene of the Crime
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 95
Arugula, Arugula
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 491
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medic…
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 161
Sesame Street
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 188
Clusterphobia
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 135
Cereal Killer
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 59
Mitosis
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rainbow
 128
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
The Big Easy
 194
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 2 pitches
Toxic Gumbo
 177
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Anchovy Caper
 166
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Maltese Falcon
 131
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Metamorphosis
 448
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Men In White Suits
 145
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Green Mile
 184
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Scene of the Crime
 257
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Arugula, Arugula
 95
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Armed and Dangerous, and Of…
 491
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Sesame Street
 161
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Clusterphobia
 188
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Cereal Killer
 135
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Mitosis
 59
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left) »

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lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
thanks for all the added info on the new routes in this area Mark... Nov 28, 2007
Hi! I left a black northface primaloft jacket at the base on cereal killer on sunday. When I returned to retrieve it, it was gone (along with my food bag which had lots of cookies). Please let me know if you have any information on this - my email is hwaight@gmail.com.
Thanks!!! Oct 26, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Hannah see the lost and found section of the forums i think you will find the lost clothing through there.

Hannah I sent you an email with the persons email, hope you find the jacket Oct 26, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
There is a white buttress at the top of this cliff. When you climb all the pitches of The Big Easy you finish right below it, are there any climbs that go through this buttress? It looks like it could be cool. Aug 11, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Yes. That is where Slick originally finished. It is my understanding from talking to Tim Gotwols, that he did the FA of that pitch. It follows a seam diagonaling up and right using gear and a pin or two. I have only TRed it in my boots while rapping in to do stuff below, but it seemed about 9+, pumpy and the gear is not very good. He OKed retroing it and since the middle pitch got obliterated when the big flake came off, I thought it would make a great finish for The Big Easy. I have not had a chance to do the retro job (it's turning into a multi year project) as it is up high over everybody and it is hard to find a time to do it when nobody is below. I am hoping to get to it later in the year when other cliffs that I am working on have closed in for the season Aug 11, 2010
S. Neoh  
A 3-pitch moderate route all the way up to the top of that white buttress would be fantastic. Stellar. It sounds like one can assess this pitch from Sesame Street, P2 of Big Easy, or Bourbon Street, right?

I really miss P2 of Rock du Jour. Great pitch. Aug 11, 2010
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
After pitch one of The Big Easy, you get some fun moves which branch either to Bourbon Street or up to the top of Sesame Street. I believe the new guidebook calls the short scamper to the top of Sesame Street pitch 2 of The Big Easy. You can easily climb the first half of Sesame Street and pop up onto the ledge after the first pitch of The Big Easy... but you'll miss the best part of Sesame Street (in my opinion).

The pitch above Sesame Street ("pitch 3" on The Big Easy) is pretty easy ground. It wouldn't be too difficult to traverse over to the crux of Bourbon Street and continue up the easy ground which follows that. Both routes can give you access to the white buttress above.

With all the bolts below... it's kind of odd to drag up a light trad rack for the final pitch up the white buttress, but oh well. I bet no one would miss 3 or 4 bolts from the top half of Bourbon Street if they were moved. :) Nonetheless, fun to get above the often crowded area below. Aug 12, 2010
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
I noticed that there are 3 new routes on the far right side of this cliff. 2 of them are listed on MP, but there seems to be another 5.10 as well. I'm not sure if the one listed (Far From Feral) is the left 5.10 or the right 5.10 of the two. Does anyone have any information? May 30, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
I was asked to post the 2 routes that were complete...
if you read the description for Far From Feral it explains that there is to be a variation start to the right... this is said to be a good bit easier...

so for all practical purposes the info is all here, enjoy! May 30, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
What I did was a completely different climb about 10 feet over from Far From Feral. If a completely separate route is considered a variation... well, OK, but that seems odd to me. Jun 1, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
just telling you what was reported to me... 3 new lines added, the right being independent the two on the left starting 10 feet apart and sharing their easy finish... if you have better or different info please post it up... Jun 2, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
You got it, Lee, thanks!

EDIT: I was contacted by the person who put up these routes, and they will be handling it. Thanks! Jun 4, 2012
Not sure if an answer to this is listed elsewhere but there is a 3 bolt to anchor route to the left of Anchovy Caper, anyone know the rating for this/what this is called? Nov 19, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Yeah I would say Bonnie and Clyde and it goes at 5.8.

P.S. IS this the Ben I met at Lago the other night while I was working? If so how was you trip? Nov 19, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
yup thats bonnie and clyde... one of the bolts is hard to see from the ground... might have been why you thought there were only 3... Nov 19, 2012
Ah yep that was certainly the route we really enjoyed that one!

And yes Matt! Thanks for the warm welcome!! We had a blast but we're still getting a feel for the outdoors. Been tackling every 5.8 and 9 we see and we're gonna ramp it up to 10a/b the weekend after turkey day! Slow and steady since we still quite green :) Nov 20, 2012
Caleb Ladue
Vt, Charlotte
Caleb Ladue   Vt, Charlotte
Found some P cord underneath The Anchovy Caper. If was underneath a little overhang. If it's yours message me and I'll return it as it looked pretty new. Otherwise great booty find! Apr 3, 2014
Tyson Miller
Lebanon, NH
Tyson Miller   Lebanon, NH
Anyone have info on the new climb right of metamorphosis, it was super fun! Mar 9, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
The new route is by Chris smith. I was going to post it but I forget what he is calling it. We will get it up here soon. I agree it is super fun! Mar 11, 2016

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