Areas in Moore's Wall
Amphitheater, The 23 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Central Wall 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Dog and Pony Show Area 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Fire Wall 8 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Hanging Garden 14 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Last Wall 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Little Amphitheater 4 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Meat Puppet (Summit Area) 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Meat Puppet Crag 6 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
North End 33 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 36
North End Boulderfield 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Sentinel Buttress 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Sentinel Buttress Boulderfield 1 / 0 / 0 / 48 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 49
Two Mile Boulderfield 0 / 0 / 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Valley Boulderfield, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
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DescriptionLocated just a short drive from Winston-Salem, Moore's Wall is the premier climbing destination of piedmont North Carolina. With its beautiful quartzite rock and juggy overhanging lines, Moore's more than holds its own with other great NC areas like Looking Glass and Linville Gorge.
There are several different sectors at Moore's, all with a different feel and aspect. While most of the walls face north, there are a few areas that do get bathed in the beautiful North Carolina sun as it sets over Sauratown and Pilot Mountain in the distance. With the exception of the coldest winter months, you can find a comfortable place to climb year round.
Moore's Wall is the home of some of the earliest climbing in North Carolina; its first recorded ascent went up in 1959. Carolina pioneers like George DeWolfe put up numerous first ascents through the 1960s. The 70s saw development at a higher level as climbing gear improved; Bob Rotert and others established routes like Air Raid and Wild Kingdom, among the hardest routes in the state at the time. Tom Howard was another prolific FA artist, with routes like the classic Zoo View to his credit. And climbers owe a debt of gratitude to local legend Tim Fisher, not only for his numerous first ascents, but his efforts at maintaining climber access to the cliff.
Like most NC destinations, Moore's is primarily a trad area. One distinguishing feature of climbing here is the adventurous nature of the descents; don't look for convenient bolted rap stations at the topouts of most routes. A typical rap station consists of fixed pro, slung trees or chocks, or a combination of these. And just finding the rap stations can be a real easter egg hunt, involving scrambling and downclimbing. Be prepared!
As part of Hanging Rock State Park, Moore's Wall is subject to park regulations, including climber registration (free). Camping is available in the park. There is also a campground in close proximity to the climber parking lot on Moore's Spring Road (bring earplugs).
Getting ThereFrom Winston-Salem, take US 52 north for about 13 miles to exit 122 (Moore-RJR Drive). Follow this road east for about four miles to NC 66 and turn left (north). Continue on 66 for almost seven miles to Moore's Spring Road (SR 1001). Turn right on Moore's Spring and continue a short distance to another right turn on Mickey Road. Follow this almost a mile to Charlie Young Road and turn right. After a short distance, you'll come to a parking lot and trailhead kiosk for the Tory's Den trail.
Continue up Charlie Young Road past the Tory's Den parking, then go right onto Hooker Farm Road for less than a half mile; turn right at the handy brown "Climbers Access" sign onto another dirt road and continue a short distance to a gravel parking lot on the left. In addition to a registration kiosk, this new climber's parking lot sports a unisex bathroom and a water pump for last-minute fills of the water bottle.
The approach from the climber parking lot is fairly aerobic, gaining about 500' of elevation in a 20-minute hike. Follow the trail past the kiosk for about 10 minutes until you reach a gravel power line road, and turn left. From here there are several trails that take you to the different sectors. See specific areas for detailed directions to each sector.
Hanging Rock State Park offers sites for $20 that include shower facilities.
Sections of Moore's Wall are subject to closure for nesting peregrine falcons. This is set seasonally; for more details, check the Carolina Climbers Coalition web site and see the notices at the registration kiosk.
Classic Climbing Routes at Moore's Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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