Description

The Forty wall is full of mainly sport routes with some trad here and there. It is easy to get to and has routes from 5.6 to 5.12c. It's not the tallest wall on the ranch (as short as 35 feet in some places) but has plenty of routes to make up for it. The average climb takes 6 draws plus 2 for the anchors.

Getting There

If you're on the ranch, just head up the road heading north past the campsites, then follow the road until the path turns right. This starts the North Forty; everything to your North is a part of this area. Most of the North Forty boulders are just South of the cliff line.

145 Total Climbs

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Location: The North Forty Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The North Forty

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 238
Cotton Candy
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 327
Green Goblin
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 209
African Herbman
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 182
The Greatest Show on Earth
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 144
First Normal Form
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 110
Dancing Outlaw
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 165
Private Property
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 173
Season of the Storm
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 101
Sour Girl
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 262
Crimp Scampi
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 176
Sonny Jim
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 116
Big Top
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 86
Love Slave
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 91
Lavender Eye
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 90
Fat Hand
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cotton Candy
 238
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Green Goblin
 327
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
African Herbman
 209
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Greatest Show on Earth
 182
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
First Normal Form
 144
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Dancing Outlaw
 110
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Private Property
 165
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Season of the Storm
 173
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Sour Girl
 101
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Crimp Scampi
 262
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Sonny Jim
 176
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Big Top
 116
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Love Slave
 86
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Lavender Eye
 91
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Fat Hand
 90
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The North Forty »

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gabe14  
OK everyone who's going to HCR at some time. If you want a 5 bolt route (4F) then you need to try this new route that is just left of Love Slave . Its unnamed and not in the guide book yet, but it will be a classic! The movement is great and the sequence is awesome! I dont know what i would grade it, but the guy who i saw working it said he thinks 5.12b/c. I did a entirely different sequence and moves then him, and i still think its a 5.12 something. So go try it! Mar 21, 2011