Elevation: 1,888 ft
GPS: 36.009, -93.295 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 119,046 total · 814/month
Shared By: Jeremiah Wells on Mar 14, 2007 with updates from Eric Mack and 1 other
Admins: TylerKC
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Description

The Forty wall is full of mainly sport routes with some trad here and there. It is easy to get to and has routes from 5.6 to 5.12c. It's not the tallest wall on the ranch (as short as 35 feet in some places) but has plenty of routes to make up for it. The average climb takes 6 draws plus 2 for the anchors.

Getting There

If you're on the ranch, just head up the road heading north past the campsites, then follow the road until the path turns right. This starts the North Forty; everything to your North is a part of this area. Most of the North Forty boulders are just South of the cliff line.

147 Total Climbs

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Location: The North Forty Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The North Forty

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 239
Cotton Candy
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 330
Green Goblin
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 212
African Herbman
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 181
The Greatest Show on Earth
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 147
First Normal Form
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 113
Dancing Outlaw
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 170
Private Property
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 176
Season of the Storm
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 103
Sour Girl
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 271
Crimp Scampi
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 177
Sonny Jim
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 117
Big Top
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 87
Love Slave
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 93
Lavender Eye
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 90
Fat Hand
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cotton Candy
 239
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Green Goblin
 330
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
African Herbman
 212
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Greatest Show on Earth
 181
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
First Normal Form
 147
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Dancing Outlaw
 113
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Private Property
 170
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Season of the Storm
 176
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Sour Girl
 103
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Crimp Scampi
 271
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Sonny Jim
 177
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Big Top
 117
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Love Slave
 87
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Lavender Eye
 93
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Fat Hand
 90
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The North Forty »

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gabe14  
OK everyone who's going to HCR at some time. If you want a 5 bolt route (4F) then you need to try this new route that is just left of Love Slave . Its unnamed and not in the guide book yet, but it will be a classic! The movement is great and the sequence is awesome! I dont know what i would grade it, but the guy who i saw working it said he thinks 5.12b/c. I did a entirely different sequence and moves then him, and i still think its a 5.12 something. So go try it! Mar 21, 2011