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Routes in The North Forty

A Little Moore S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Accident, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ace in the Hole S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Action Hotdog S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Adult Supervision S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
African Herbman S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Around the Fur S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Auntie Grandmother T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balooga S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bearded Lady T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Top S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Brand New S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bulb, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caught in the Closet Again S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chica Bonita S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chica Bonito S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Circus Freaks T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Class clown T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Clown Suit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Controversy, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corn Grinder S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cotton Candy S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Count Chalkula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cow Killer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cows in the Mist S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crab Louse S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crimp Scampi S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dancing Bears T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dancing Outlaw S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dos Hermanos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dreadlock Holiday T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
E-Kat S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Earl's Revenge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eighteen Inches S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elephant Man, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Emmas's Got a Mullet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Faded Memory T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Grinder S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fat Hand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
First Normal Form S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flashbacks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frankenberry S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Girth Hitch S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goldmember S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Great Gracious Grant, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Greatest Show on Earth, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Goblin S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groove Tube T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groovy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guide's Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hangs a Little to the Left S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hardly Spot 'Er T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harry Butthole Pussy Potter S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Honorary Brave S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horny Goatweed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurricane, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ides of March, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jackhole S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jewell Always Smiles S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jewell Says S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep "Em Seperated T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kids Stuff T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kurbcheck S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lamb Chops S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lampe Land S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lavender Eye S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left for Dead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Legacy 26 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leonid S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lion Tamer S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Little Manly Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Miss Giggles T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Local Hebrew S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Love Slave S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
LoveMember S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Marek's Golden Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mclovin' It S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Meck, Mecke, What's the Difference? S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mefloquine Dreams S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mine Mine Mine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Missing Rack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Molt S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
More Better S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mossy Revelations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mr. Hanky S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Narwhal T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Karkaras T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Newton County Mentality S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ojos Locos S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Owen's Best Buddy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paul's Redemption S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perfect Hair Forever S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perfect Trifecta, The S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Petrified S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Piratas Putas S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Playing Hooky S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poetry in Goshen T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Poison Ivy Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Private Property S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pulp Fiction S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Revenge of the Bat-moth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roman Says S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Roman's Empire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Romaniac, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scrambled Eggs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seaana Says S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Season of the Storm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Serfs and Lords S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Short Stack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Show T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Sin Nombre S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sin Nombre Moore S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slide Show T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smooth Criminal S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Some Moore Better S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Something for CiCi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Something for E-Kat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Something for Jewell S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something for Roman S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sonny Jim S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sonrisa Loco S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sons of the Soil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sour Girl S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spam S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stiff-Neked Fools T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Strongman S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sundial S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sure Thing T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swiss Family Pancakes T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Tattoed Lady Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tongue and Groove T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Too Short for the Short Bus S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Towely S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Towely 24HHH Variation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trapeze Artist S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tres Equis S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tunnel Vision S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Uncle Grandfather T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Walker Arkansas Ranger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wanted Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Webster's Part S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Webster's Partner S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zeke's Didge Dance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zeppelin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
summer rain S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Description

The Forty wall is full of mainly sport routes with some trad here and there. It is easy to get to and has routes from 5.6 to 5.12c. It's not the tallest wall on the ranch (as short as 35 feet in some places) but has plenty of routes to make up for it. The average climb takes 6 draws plus 2 for the anchors.

Getting There

If your on the ranch just head up the road heading north past the campsites, then follow the road untill the path turns right. This starts the North Forty, everything to your north is part of this area. Most of the North Forty boulders are just south of the cliff line.

145 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The North Forty

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 229
Cotton Candy
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 310
Green Goblin
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 202
African Herbman
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 170
The Greatest Show on Earth
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 136
First Normal Form
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 99
Dancing Outlaw
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 159
Private Property
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 163
Season of the Storm
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 97
Sour Girl
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 252
Crimp Scampi
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 168
Sonny Jim
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 109
Big Top
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 84
Love Slave
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 89
Lavender Eye
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 85
Fat Hand
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cotton Candy
 229
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Green Goblin
 310
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
African Herbman
 202
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Greatest Show on Earth
 170
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
First Normal Form
 136
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Dancing Outlaw
 99
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Private Property
 159
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Season of the Storm
 163
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Sour Girl
 97
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Crimp Scampi
 252
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Sonny Jim
 168
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Big Top
 109
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Love Slave
 84
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Lavender Eye
 89
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Fat Hand
 85
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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gabe14  
OK everyone who's going to HCR at some time. If you want a 5 bolt route (4F) then you need to try this new route that is just left of Love Slave . Its unnamed and not in the guide book yet, but it will be a classic! The movement is great and the sequence is awesome! I dont know what i would grade it, but the guy who i saw working it said he thinks 5.12b/c. I did a entirely different sequence and moves then him, and i still think its a 5.12 something. So go try it! Mar 21, 2011

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