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Critic's Choice

Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

There are a few hard testpieces here, as well as some easier stuff. This cliff does not have quite the concentration of routes that other Creek crags do, and there seems to be quite a bit of loose and fresh rockfall here, but it is still worth a visit. Morning sun, afternoon shade in the summer.

Getting There

This is the second large canyon/valley on the right as you drive up toward Beef Basin from Bridger Jack area. Right after a cattle guard (and before you hit the turnoff to Way Rambo/Pistol Whipped area), take the high clearance track to the right. Parking is at the end of this road.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
 3
The Hitch Hiker's Thumb
Trad, Aid 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 4
Fingerling
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 5
Fisticuffs
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 1
Fist of Fury
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Mr. Critical
Trad
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 2
Thin and Tipsy
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
Cult Classic
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 2
Sgt. Fish Scale
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
Refractory Period
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
Unknown
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 26
Ruby Flame
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 9
Critical Mass
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 3
Uncut
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 288
Bunny Slope
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Blue Square
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Ed's World (Left Variation)
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 113
Ed's World
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 27
Belly Full of Bad Berries
Trad
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 1
Mr. Bad News
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
New Life or Second Life
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 0
Life....
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Sabrina
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
 3
(Brutus of) Wyde Choice
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 8
Barley Route
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 24
Short and Stout
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 5
Unknown
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
Knees without honor
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 71
Critic's Choice
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 2
Unknown Chimney
Sport, TR
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 32
BBC from Cleveland (Big Bold Cli…
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Wrench Route
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 6
Break a Leg
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Just Because
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
Unknown Wide Corner Route
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 26
Second Choice
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
Unnamed 5.10
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 13
Acronymph
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 12
Tom's Thumb
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 26
Unnamed 5.10 Flare
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Pinch It
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 2
Sugar Plum
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Hitch Hiker's Thumb
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 Trad, Aid 2 pitches
Fingerling
 4
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Fisticuffs
 5
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Fist of Fury
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Mr. Critical
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Thin and Tipsy
 2
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad
Cult Classic
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Sgt. Fish Scale
 2
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Refractory Period
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Unknown
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Ruby Flame
 26
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Critical Mass
 9
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Uncut
 3
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Bunny Slope
 288
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Blue Square
 7
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Ed's World (Left Variation)
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Ed's World
 113
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Belly Full of Bad Berries
 27
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad
Mr. Bad News
 1
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Trad
New Life or Second Life
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Life....
 0
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Sabrina
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
(Brutus of) Wyde Choice
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X Trad
Barley Route
 8
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Short and Stout
 24
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Unknown
 5
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Knees without honor
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Critic's Choice
 71
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Unknown Chimney
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Sport, TR
BBC from Cleveland (Big Bol…
 32
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Wrench Route
 12
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Break a Leg
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Just Because
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Unknown Wide Corner Route
 2
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Second Choice
 26
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Unnamed 5.10
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Acronymph
 13
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Tom's Thumb
 12
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Unnamed 5.10 Flare
 26
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Pinch It
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sugar Plum
 2
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

some unknown corner offwidth just to the right of ruby flame..ruby flame in pink- top left. Javier on lead
[Hide Photo] some unknown corner offwidth just to the right of ruby flame..ruby flame in pink- top left. Javier on lead
KW on the wide project.. and i mean WIDE
[Hide Photo] KW on the wide project.. and i mean WIDE

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Philip Straub
Somewhere West...
[Hide Comment] WARNING!!!

On 11/25/2017 there was a major rockfall event on the offwidth corner to the right of Ruby Flame. The route is not on this page but has a plaque indicating that it is called Critical Mass. There is a picture of it on this main page. The rock was easily pulled off by a very light member of our party who was seconding the climb. It was about the size of a golf cart and fell from very near the chains. Fortunately there were no serious injuries but everything at the base of the climb was destroyed.

THERE IS ANOTHER BLOCK WAITING TO FALL which was being partially supported by the boulders which fell on us. If this block falls anyone belaying this climb, Ruby Flame or the OW system to the right of the corner (plaqued: Uncut, 11-) would be killed. Avoid this part of the cliff! Nov 26, 2017