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Routes in Ha Ling (formerly Chinaman's)

NE Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
NW Shoulder (aka THE BOLT), The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Orient Express (Direct) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sisyphus Summits S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Soft Moth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elevation: 7,900 ft
GPS: 51.065, -115.4 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 12,356 total · 94/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 9, 2007
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

Description

This is a prominent, subsidiary peak at the N or NW end of Mt. Lawrence Grassi in Kananaskis Provincial Park. It is between Thre Sisters and Mt. Rundle. The prominent N and NE faces call out to you to be climbed.

The peak itself is 7900 feet (2408m) high, with a 2400 foot (740m) elevation gain. The rock is coarse limestone, definitely loose in places. The exposure is quite nice. It can be a great place during a warm summer.

For the history buffs, the names for this peak supposedly date back to the 1880s when a bet was placed. Supposedly, Ha Ling, a railroad worker won a bet by making a round trip from Bow Valley in 5 1/2 hours. Now, some controversy is that Lee Poon actually did the ascent and won the $10 bet. Weird, one website says $50, that would have been a lot in those days. The peak was renamed in perhaps a revisionistic PC sort of way.

For rock climbers, there are both traditional and sport climbs here on the 550m (1650ft) face. Once, the 21-pitch (all 1/2 rope or less), 5.10+ N face route, Sisyphus Summits, was quite controversial. This was once possibly the longest sport climb in North America. The low-end difficulty NE Ridge attracts many due to its pleasant exposure and apparent ease of ascent, but beware, the route has some hazards. Check out the Alpine Club Canada site for a few details on 4 injuries & 3 deaths.

Map of the area.

Photo of peak from approach. Photo closer to the face. Photo on NE face with nice exposure. My old shots are all print film.

Getting There

Take Highway 1 to Canmore. Then go on Spray Lake Reservoir Rd. past the Canmore Nordic Center. Hikers will typically park at the Goat Creek parking lot. Climbers occasionally park/poach near the dam/reservoir.

The hike up the scree to the base takes 30-60 minutes. It is a bit loose.

The descent (1.4mi/2.2km) goes down the backside with scree and scree-skiing for 1-2 hours back to the base.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ha Ling (formerly Chinaman's)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
NE Buttress
Trad 11 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sisyphus Summits
Sport 21 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
NE Buttress 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 11 pitches
Sisyphus Summits 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 21 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Ha Ling (formerly Chinaman's) »

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