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Bluff Street Cracks

Utah > Southwest Utah > Saint George
Warning Access Issue: Sometimes closed in spring for raptor nesting DetailsDrop down

Description

The Bluff Street Cracks are the south-facing sandstone cliffs that overlook Saint George on the north side of town.

There are a number of cracks and corners here including hand cracks and wide stuff. Todd Goss's ?? lists six named climbs but notes pretty much everything here has been climbed at one time or another.

There are at least three bolted anchors (some with chains, some with webbing) that aren't noted in the guidebook.

Getting There

The base of the cliffs are a short hike/scramble from the streets of Saint George. It is probably best to park at the north end of 400 W. To get to the north end of 400 W it is easiest to take Diagonal Street. Either turn southeast on Diagonal from Bluff Street north of St George Blvd or turn north on Main Street from St George Blvd and then turn left on Diagonal. Then turn north on 400W and continue a block or two.

Alternatively, see here:

Map

Hike/scramble up to the base of the cliffs (10-20 minutes).

Routes from Left to Right

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
● Jalapeño
Trad
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
 4
● Habanero
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
● Kukulkan (Serpiente enplumada)
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
● Hands of Mystery
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 14
● Marry f*ck kill
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 5
● Gruel
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
 4
● Dust Devil
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 39
● Freeze Dried Bat
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 112
● Wide Boy
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
 2
● Wide Boy (extension)
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 164
● Red Warrior
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 225
● Deface Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
● Coner beaty
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
 2
● Double bird
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
● Route 99
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 55
● Joseph Meeks
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 40
● Pig Lloyd
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 28
● Inspired and Perspired
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Jalapeño
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Habanero
 4
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 Trad
● Kukulkan (Serpiente enplumada)
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
● Hands of Mystery
 2
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Marry f*ck kill
 14
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
● Gruel
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Dust Devil
 4
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R Trad
● Freeze Dried Bat
 39
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
● Wide Boy
 112
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Wide Boy (extension)
 2
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R Trad
● Red Warrior
 164
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Deface Crack
 225
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Coner beaty
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Double bird
 2
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 Trad
● Route 99
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
● Joseph Meeks
 55
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Pig Lloyd
 40
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Inspired and Perspired
 28
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View from Parking on 400 W. <br> Joseph Meeks/Pig Loyd <br> (noted as 5.7/5.9+) <br> Red Warrior/Deface the Crack Area <br> (noted as 5.9+/5.10a)
[Hide Photo] View from Parking on 400 W. Joseph Meeks/Pig Loyd (noted as 5.7/5.9+) Red Warrior/Deface the Crack Area (noted as 5.9+/5.10a)
bluff street
[Hide Photo] bluff street
Unsure if this is wide boy or not. We didn't have it in our book and this guy saw some bolts and red pointed it. Said it felt like a 5.11. The bolts are on top. He went up and over and then kind of a chimney to get there.
[Hide Photo] Unsure if this is wide boy or not. We didn't have it in our book and this guy saw some bolts and red pointed it. Said it felt like a 5.11. The bolts are on top. He went up and over and then kin…
<em>Bluff Street Cracks</em>
[Hide Photo] Bluff Street Cracks

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kyle Wills
Whidbey Island, WA
[Hide Comment] Once at the base there is at series of perfect chimneys and 4th class paths to the top lying directly in line with 400W towards the right of the obvious approach trail marked by the medium sized NO TRESPASSING sign ( had a few questions about that/is this a problem?) While I was a bit worried about the rock quality at first it was pretty easy to build some solid anchors above most pitches. Also the three "lines/routes/chossy death piles" to the left of Pig Floyd are 5.easy and can be free soloed to the top. May 5, 2010
Brice Pollock
Mammoth Lakes, CA
[Hide Comment] Many amazing deep cracks here. A great afternoon ticking them off Nov 20, 2018
Chad
UT
[Hide Comment] Please stop adding bolts to existing routes in this area! If you're replacing a bad one, do it responsibly, and thank you for your contribution.

Someone had the balls to add a bolt to the base of Deface, for what I can only assume was to provide an anchor for rope-soloing the route. Concerning on many levels.

Route 99 has 2 new bolts since the last time I was on it. They are absolutely not needed and have been a fairly recent addition. The route is no safer with them and it can be easily protected without them.

It has been heartbreaking to see the impact that the increased traffic has had on this cool little area over the past several years but that would be a huge digression. The least we can do is to leave the routes as they are, with new bolts going in only on a 1:1 replacement basis. The tick marks, wads of tape, dog shit and bull-shit new bolts need to stop.

Happy to give the hangers back to whomever placed the bolts. Feel free to PM me to make arrangements. Nov 30, 2020
Stevie Nacho
Utah
[Hide Comment] Chad,
Thank you for removing the bolts and keeping an eye for this type of situation. I was the first ascentionist of Route 99 and appreciate your help. I know the deface crack can be rope soloed without the bolt, as I have done it before. Hopefully this doesn’t happen again. .

Cheers for being awesome

Tda Dec 1, 2020
Albert M. Lutton
[Hide Comment] The trend of adding bolts (other than replacement of existing 1st ascent bolts) is a bad trend in so many ways.
And adding bolts next to existing protectable cracks is ethically bankrupt, except in very rare situations. (See Wheat Thin in Yosemite) If you are a sport climber who is just starting out learning traditional climbing, then i would strongly and humbly suggest learning the history, gear, methods, and ideology of the climbing areas you visit before breaking out the drill, blindly adding bolts and possibly destroying the unique character, flavor and essence of the 1st ascensionists vision.
(See the Bachar Yerian in Tuolumne). Apr 5, 2025