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Eldorado Peak Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Eldorado Peak

Dorado Needle 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4

Early Morning Spire 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0

Main Peak 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 9

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Elevation:	8,860 ft
GPS:	48.53755, -121.13436 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	63,223 total · 303/month
Shared By:	Danny Darby on Feb 25, 2007
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details

Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.

Description

Eldorado Peak is an awe aspiring alpine area deep in the North Cascades. The Cascade Pass area can be very crowded on the weekends but is secluded on the weekdays. The summit of Eldorado Peak is guarded by a long and strenuous approach. All though it can be accomplished as a one day push by strong parties it is probably best done as a 2-3 day climb. Routes can be from a easy walk up with an amazing knife edge traverse to WI 3 climbing.

Getting There

The approach is long and strenuous. Walk west on the Cascade River Road for about 100 feet and find the log to cross the river. Once you have crossed the river you follow the trail for about 1840 vertical through the forest. You will eventually reach a large boulder field. Scramble through though boulders following carins and occasionally a trail on the right side of the boulders. Boulder hop for about 1000 vertical. After the boulders you will reach the beautiful meadows where you will hike to the ridge that overlooks the Roush Creek Basin and Eldorado Glacier. Locate the trail the down climbs 3rd class terrain down to the moraine. Follow the moraine to the glacier and then hike the glacier to a great high camp at about 7600 feet.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eldorado Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

Easy Snow 136 ● East Ridge Snow, Alpine Main Peak
AI2 Steep Snow 10 ● Northwest Ice Couloir Ice, Snow, Alpine Main Peak
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Easy Snow 7 ● Austera Peak Trad, Snow, Alpine Main Peak
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Easy Snow 9 ● Klawatti Peak SW Buttress Trad, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches Main Peak
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow 32 ● Northwest Ridge Trad, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches Dorado Needle
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 10 ● East Ridge Trad, Alpine Dorado Needle
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Steep Snow 7 ● North Ridge Trad, Snow, Alpine Main Peak
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Easy Snow 15 ● Southwest Buttress Trad, Snow, Alpine 9 pitches Dorado Needle
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Mod. Snow 8 ● West Arete Trad, Snow, Alpine 10 pitches Main Peak