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Mount Magazine State Park

Arkansas

Description

Arkansas crag. Lots of sport and trad ranging from 5.6 to 5.12+. 90+ developed routes. Tallest routes top out at 80'. Many can be top roped. Camping is available with water and electricity hookups for $14 a night. Primitive sites are not available. A new lodge is also open if you want to stay in a hotel room.

Getting There

Near Paris Arkansas. Go to the top of Mount Magazine on the South Side. There is a visitor center that you need to register at before climbing. They should be able to give you very specific directions. Park at the Hang Glider Launch Site. Walk west untill you see a sign that marks the climbers trail. Follow this until you find a good tree to rap over the edge down the wall.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

route photo
[Hide Photo] route photo
Pulling the crux roof.
[Hide Photo] Pulling the crux roof.
Awesome Trad Route<br>
Climber: Mclane Moody<br>
Photographer: Anthony Johnson
[Hide Photo] Awesome Trad Route Climber: Mclane Moody Photographer: Anthony Johnson
Judith navigating the subtle holds to the top. Photo: Haley Luna
[Hide Photo] Judith navigating the subtle holds to the top. Photo: Haley Luna
Sign at the trailhead from the parking lot.
[Hide Photo] Sign at the trailhead from the parking lot.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Wayne Monnett
Englewood, CO
[Hide Comment] Passed through the area coming from CO and loved the rock. Didn't have time to bust out most of the area but there is a BUNCH of new routes someone has bolted up, real new real nice, and if anyone local to the are has time it would be awesome to see a little bit more info of the are come up Apr 7, 2011
[Hide Comment] We passed through this area on the way back (sorta) to DFW from Sam's Throne. We had a great short time here and climbed Junior Achievement and Cruise Control. Here is the beta: The rock climber's trail sign in the lodge parking lot APPEARS TO POINT TO AN ABOVE CRAG TRAIL THAT DEAD ENDS! An arrow would be nice on the sign. The trail actually is to the right of the sign and descends a staircase like feature that is very hard to see from ground level. The guidebook doesn't mention this. We ended up with an epic approach, consisting of 2 tree rappels, one of which over a ledge. Nov 4, 2012