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Elevation: 2,582 ft 787 m
GPS: 35.1639, -93.6487
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 76,040 total · 362/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Feb 20, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Tyler KC, JD Borgeson

Description Suggest change

Arkansas crag. Sunny walls protected from the wind makes for good winter cragging. Lots of sport and trad ranging from 5.6 to 5.12+. 90+ developed routes. Tallest routes top out at 80'. Many can be top roped. Camping is available with water and electricity hookups for $35 a night. Primitive sites are available 10 miles away at Cove Lake Campground for $15 a night. A large lodge is on top of the cliffs if you want to stay in a hotel room.

Consider bringing loppers or hand pruners for the very thorny trails. 

Getting There Suggest change

Near Paris Arkansas. Go to the top of Mount Magazine on the South Side. There is a visitor center that you need to register at before climbing. They should be able to give you very specific directions. 

You would previously park at the Hang Glider Launch Site. Walk west until you see a sign that marks the climbers trail. Follow this until you find a good tree to rap over the edge down the wall.  

There is now a large lodge and parking lot next to the climber's trail, and the climber's trail leads to the base of the cliff line (no rappelling needed).

65 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Magazine State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
Junior Achievement
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 36
Cruise Control
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 35
Multi Colored Poptart
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 42
Right to Flight/ The Nose
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 23
Radical Changes
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
Solitare
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
Brunch
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 8
W.A.P. (Wet Ass Pitch)
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 18
Sonya Come Home
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 13
Scarlet Begonias
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 12
Natural Stimulant
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
Mirage De Sade
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
French Connection
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Viva Las Vegas
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Jupiter Trembled
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Junior Achievement Mt Magazine Proper > 4. Crag Central
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Cruise Control Mt Magazine Proper > 4. Crag Central
 36
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Multi Colored Poptart Mt Magazine Proper > 2. Breakfast Wall
 35
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Right to Flight/ The Nose Mt Magazine Proper > 4. Crag Central
 42
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Radical Changes Mt Magazine Proper > 6. The Hallucinogen Wall
 23
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Solitare Mt Magazine Proper > 3. Black on Blonde Wall
 13
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Brunch Mt Magazine Proper > 2. Breakfast Wall
 12
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
W.A.P. (Wet Ass Pitch) Mt Magazine Proper > 2. Breakfast Wall
 8
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Sonya Come Home Mt Magazine Proper > 4. Crag Central
 18
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Scarlet Begonias Mt Magazine Proper > 4. Crag Central
 13
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Natural Stimulant Mt Magazine Proper > 2. Breakfast Wall
 12
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Mirage De Sade Mt Magazine Proper > 6. The Hallucinogen Wall
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
French Connection Mt Magazine Proper > 4. Crag Central
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Viva Las Vegas Mt Magazine Proper > 4. Crag Central
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Jupiter Trembled Mt Magazine Proper > 2. Breakfast Wall
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mount Magazine State Park »

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