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Raven Rock

Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge
Warning Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. DetailsDrop down

Description

Raven Rock is more of a Red River icon than it is a climbing Destination. On countless trips in the 80's and 90's people asked "what is that?" pointing upward, and for years I could not say much more than to give its name. Only years after climbing at the red did I ever climb on it. Many climbers never have. Notably, a few quality moderate lines escaped any ascents until the mid 1990's, but the crag seems, like fortress wall, to have remained primarily a trad wall and has not been bolted up.
The crag faces east and gets morning sun.
The most popular (a measured statement) climb at this cliff is "Nevermore, 5.9+" but there are other lines there that are recommended in the book. Beware, the cliff may lend to more adventure than security. The hanger-less bolts on "Nevermore" were total trash even 15 years ago.

Getting There

Drive down Hwy 77 through town and through the Nada Tunnel and a few miles more, passing Military Wall and Left Flank to cross an old Iron Bridge. Park at a pull-off there and take your valuables with you. Cross the bridge back on foot and turn off on a river-side trail walking NW toward the obvious cliff in that direction. After a brief and casual walk, the trail will intercept an old rutted out road, more fit for a mountain bike than a car... Follow the road uphill (somewhat strenuous) until a trail leads up and left to the base of the cliff, arriving at the left side.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 3
● Dead of Winter
Trad 2 pitches
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
 1
● Persimmon Sky
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 24
● Nevermore
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Dead of Winter
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
● Persimmon Sky
 1
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 Trad
● Nevermore
 24
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 4 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

It's somewhere that way...
[Hide Photo] It's somewhere that way...
Raven Rock, the route Nevermore (old school 5.9+R) takes the line following the crack on the right side of the upper blank face.
[Hide Photo] Raven Rock, the route Nevermore (old school 5.9+R) takes the line following the crack on the right side of the upper blank face.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The approach was not clear for this one. We ended up hiking up to the Raven Rock parking lot and taking the old road from the start. Oct 20, 2014
Jacob palmer
Akron
[Hide Comment] Just went and did this and here's a few things. The RRG guide book tells you to cross back over the steel bridge and follow a trail off to the right along the river. As of 5/22/2015 there is no such trail. We attempted to bushwack through this area where at best there were deer trails, I would not recommend doing this as there is poison ivy and stinging nettle everywhere. The best and easiest option is before crossing the bridge you will see a sign that says ravens rock overlook parking $5. Park on the road just past this sign and hike up the road to the right. Feel free to talk to the guy who lives in the house that you walk right past, he'll share some really cool history about this rock. pass the gate and follow this road all the way up and past some switch backs to get to the base of the climb. Beware, the trail that branches off of the paved road after the switch backs is very hard to spot and pretty much non existent. If you hike all the way to the top, you've gone to far. Jun 12, 2015
[Hide Comment] I have jumped this rock several times the second tallest jump int the gorge except eagles nest!!!!! Spent so much time here I really miss the climbing!!! 320 Ft Aug 10, 2015
[Hide Comment] Re-bolt with wave bolts. No one has the time? Top down even? Just asking... Oct 27, 2016
Amanda Smith
Fayetteville, WV
[Hide Comment] We parked at the Raven Rock lot owned by some nice locals, dropped $5 in the box and followed the flattish but overgrown trail along the river for about 20 mins, eventually this trail will curve left along an open marsh-like area away from the river. From here, the trail climbs uphill following the original road that once led to the resort. I cannot recommend climbing Nevermore enough! It’s so much fun to top this feature out then walk around and enjoying immaculate views of the valley and exploring the old ruins of the resort. Paragliders would launch from this feature all the time in the 1970s, and Raven Rock has even been BASE jumped. At the resort, you’ll see the old foundation for a caged black bear, which unfortunately was a common road side attraction back in the day. I’d also recommend parking at the ‘Raven Rock’ lot and donating. Consider it a donation to some real old-timers who enjoy the company and stories from Raven Rock. Jul 25, 2026