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The Playground

New York > Catskills (Ice) > Stony Clove > Stony Clove - E Side

Description

The Playground contains the easiest climbing in Stony Clove, with routes ranging from WI2- to WI3+. It's a favorite with guide services, who bring groups of beginners here. The approach, while strenuous, isn't as bad as other areas of the Clove. There are at least 4-5 distinct lines, with options for others; the area can only hold 3-4 ropes, though, before things get too crowded.

You don't need to lead to climb here; you can either solo up the easy gully on the left (WI2-) or walk around to the right, past Twin Columns and Sun Wall, to an obvious walk-up. Bring plenty of static line for anchoring off the trees at the top.

Getting There

From the parking lot, walk across the road towards the wooden steps (or, wooden sign, if it's been snowing). Angle left at the top towards an old railroad grade, and follow that for about 200 feet or so until the steep slope on your right touches it. Make a right, and take the path of least resistance up to the ice you can see above. Be aware that the ice actually extends a fair distance from the top; it might be prudent to don your crampons to have purchase, especially if there's a lot of snow on the ground. The alcove at the top (on the left) is the Playground; the large, hanging columns (center and right) are Twin Columns; walk at the base of the crag to the right and around the corner for Sun Wall and the walk-around.

Descend either by walking carefully (important in a large group), or by glissading.

Routes from Left to Right

WI2-3
 39
The Playground
Trad, TR, Ice
WI4+ M6+
 1
Unexpected Acceleration
Trad, Mixed, Ice
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Playground
 39
WI2-3 Trad, TR, Ice
Unexpected Acceleration
 1
WI4+ M6+ Trad, Mixed, Ice

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The Playground
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