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Upper Tier

California > San Bernardino… > Highway 38 Crags > (d) Frustration Creek

Description

This area has routes on both the west and east walls. If you want to do hard routes this is your area. Almost all the routes on the West side are 5.11 or harder! This is the area that was hit the hardest by the mudslide but a few climbers have come in and leveled out the belay stances and re bolted a few routes so that you aren't clipping bolts 3 feet off the deck.

Getting There

From the middle tier scramble up the east wall along the base there is a very faint climbers trail. It is a 4th class scramble. Look out for the stinging nettle.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
Thunderbolt
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 17
Curbie
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 19
Chelsea Grin
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 21
Dirty Girls
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 24
Spasm
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 29
Jungle Cruiser
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 47
Hippie Girls
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 21
Dirty Hippie
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Maximum Hippy
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 71
Good Girls
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 40
Bad Boys
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Dougie Style
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
Diluted
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 77
Delusions
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 1
Stressed Out
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 1
Granola Girl
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
Mohawk
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 1
Delusional Narcissist
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 12
Narcissist
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 7
Fuel Injected
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 1
Tied and Tortured
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 39
Groove Dynamics
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 4
Taxidermy
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 5
Liquid Gold
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 2
Skinned Alive
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Water Torture
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Arachnophobia
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Thunderbolt
 10
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Curbie
 17
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Chelsea Grin
 19
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Dirty Girls
 21
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Spasm
 24
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Jungle Cruiser
 29
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Hippie Girls
 47
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Dirty Hippie
 21
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Maximum Hippy
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Good Girls
 71
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Bad Boys
 40
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Dougie Style
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Diluted
 13
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Delusions
 77
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Stressed Out
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Granola Girl
 1
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Mohawk
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Delusional Narcissist
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Narcissist
 12
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Fuel Injected
 7
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Tied and Tortured
 1
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Groove Dynamics
 39
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Taxidermy
 4
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Liquid Gold
 5
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Skinned Alive
 2
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Water Torture
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Arachnophobia
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Think before you clip fixed gear. Recently replaced Chouinard biner on Narcissist...
[Hide Photo] Think before you clip fixed gear. Recently replaced Chouinard biner on Narcissist...
Delusions 11c ,  Narcissist 13a , Fuel Injected 13a , Tied and Tortured 12d , Taxidermy 12d , Liquid Gold 13c
[Hide Photo] Delusions 11c , Narcissist 13a , Fuel Injected 13a , Tied and Tortured 12d , Taxidermy 12d , Liquid Gold 13c
Delusions 11c ,  Narcissist 13a , Fuel Injected 13a , Tied and Tortured 12d , Taxidermy 12d , Liquid Gold 13c
[Hide Photo] Delusions 11c , Narcissist 13a , Fuel Injected 13a , Tied and Tortured 12d , Taxidermy 12d , Liquid Gold 13c
Joel taking a burn on Narcissist 13a.
[Hide Photo] Joel taking a burn on Narcissist 13a.
The view from the Upper Tier, Frustration Creek
[Hide Photo] The view from the Upper Tier, Frustration Creek
From left to right:  Chelsea Grin  5.10a, Dirty Girls 5.9, Scaphism 5.8
[Hide Photo] From left to right: Chelsea Grin 5.10a, Dirty Girls 5.9, Scaphism 5.8
Myself climbing in the Upper Falls @ Frustration Creek.
[Hide Photo] Myself climbing in the Upper Falls @ Frustration Creek.
Sam belaying Aaron on 2nd pitch above "Good Girls"
[Hide Photo] Sam belaying Aaron on 2nd pitch above "Good Girls"
Chris S. working Evisceration (5.13c), Frustration Creek
[Hide Photo] Chris S. working Evisceration (5.13c), Frustration Creek
Jason on Delusions (5.11c), Frustration Creek
[Hide Photo] Jason on Delusions (5.11c), Frustration Creek
Western Columbine (Aquilegia formosa), Frustration Creek
[Hide Photo] Western Columbine (Aquilegia formosa), Frustration Creek

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Evisceration on Youtube - youtube.com/watch?v=GA1shPB… Jun 8, 2009
janjan
redlands, ca
[Hide Comment] What happened to this Evisceration route? Jun 8, 2014
Alex Fletcher
Las Vegas
[Hide Comment] Public Service Announcement: On September 29th, 2016, my partner and I were taking a break between routes to eat in the Upper Tier at the corner where Good Girls starts. I was sitting down on a rock against the wall and heard a rumbling up high on the right side of the waterfall near where there are currently two fixed ropes hanging down. I looked up and saw sailing through mid air a large rock about the size of a melon among lots of other debris. Hoooolyyy S*** came out of my mouth rather than Rock! but the meaning was clear. My partner and I made ourselves as small as possible against the wall while all around us rained lethal sized and amounts of land slide for approximately the next 60 seconds. When the thundering noise came to an end finally we started to gather ourselves back together. Looking around there was freshly shattered granite all around including in particular at least one small fist sized rock that landed on our rope bag not more than three feet away. This rock and many others like it was decomposing and able to be crushed under the pressure of squeezing by hand meaning that it was probably much larger while free falling only shattering once it impacted the ground.

Fortunately neither of us was hurt and only one other person was in the valley down by the lower tier out of the way of anything coming down hard. This was a pretty solid reminder why we wear helmets and to always be cautious especially in areas known for their less than preferable quality of rock.

We believe the event was triggered by an animal, possibly a rather fat set of crows that we spotted moments before on the ground nearby.

Please always wear a helmet Sep 30, 2016
[Hide Comment] There are a couple of bolted lines (perma draws) to the right of Liquid Gold and Skinned Alive. They are both on the same wall as the aforementioned two routes and still on the left side of the waterfall, when facing it. Does anyone have any information on what these two routes are? Thanks ahead of time! May 15, 2017
Jason Milford
Los Angeles, CA
[Hide Comment] To the right of liquid is evisceration 13+, to the right of that is skinned alive, which is the furthest right route. A 14a breaks off to the right from skinned at like bolt 7 or something, I can't remember the name. May 16, 2017