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Areas in Frustration Creek

Headwall, The 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Lower Tier 3 / 22 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
Middle Tier 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Overhead Wall 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Upper Tier 0 / 20 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20

Description

This area is located in a slot canyon. With a water fall that flows almost all year long (depending on the amount of snow fall). It is very beautiful area although it is right next to HWY 38 so it can be noisy on weekends from all the motorists driving by. If you don't know it is there you can drive by and not even notice it. During the summer this is the place to come because in the afternoon the sun drops around the corner and the majority of the routes are in the shade, plus you get a nice breeze coming down the canyon cooled by the waterfall. Make sure you bring bug spray as this are can get a lot of gnats and mosquitos.
To my knowledge there was a very small guide book released, basically you xeroxed it and gave it to your buddies so the route names and FA's may be a little spotty.

The lower level of the area has many intermediate level routes (5.9 - 5.11). the Middle level has quite a few fun 2-3 pitch routes and even a few projects that look phenomenal. The upper area of Frustration creek has quite a few 5.13's down to a few 5.10's. A few years back during a heavy rain the waterfall turned into a raging torrent of mud that burried the first 10-15 feet of the climbs in the upper area. It also ripped off a few bolts of a 5.9 on the East side of the wall that was fun beginners climb. Since then the routes have been re-bolted and cleaned up. Since the flood the area has lost popularity, but this is still a fun place to climb with enough routes to keep one busy for a day.

Getting There

From Redlands: Take Lugonia Northeast till it turns into Hwy 38. Take HWY 38 for about 8-9 miles till you get to the Forest Falls turn off. (do not go to Forest Falls) Here HWY 38 will take a very sharp hair-pin turn to the left. Follow HWY 38 past the hair-pin turn for about 1/2 a mile the 3rd turn out on your left is where you will park and walk about 100 feet down HWY 38 (if you are walking up you are going the wrong way) the canyon is on your left with a climbers trail to the bottom. {total approach time <1 minute}

65 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Frustration Creek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hippie Girls
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The Fourth Wise Man
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Girls
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Dead Terrorist
Sport 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Soul Slab
Sport 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great White Bighorn
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
90's Chick
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
L.O.L.
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Schizophrenic Slab
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Under the Mountain
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnatural Act
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
The Expedition
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Delusions
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lightning Strike
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Groove Dynamics
Sport
Hippie Girls Upper Tier 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
The Fourth Wise Man Lower Tier 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Good Girls Upper Tier 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Dead Terrorist Lower Tier 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Super Soul Slab Lower Tier 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 3 pitches
Great White Bighorn Middle Tier 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
90's Chick Middle Tier 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
L.O.L. Middle Tier 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Schizophrenic Slab Overhead Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
King Under the Mountain Lower Tier 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Unnatural Act Lower Tier 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Expedition Lower Tier 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Delusions Upper Tier 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Lightning Strike Headwall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Groove Dynamics Upper Tier 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Frustration Creek »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Forever Outside
Los Angeles, CA
Forever Outside   Los Angeles, CA
Very cool area, thank you to those who developed it. I found a headlamp in the area, HMU if you can identify it as yours. Also, there is a huge dead raccoon at the bottom of the waterfall, it's very gross/sad looking and I imagine once it starts decomposing it's gonna reek like holy hell. Oct 21, 2017
Large 3' long rose colored diamond back rattler spotted hanging out all over the first tier between urushiol, soul slab, and primal quest Jun 19, 2017
Matt Janse
Rancho Cucamonga
Matt Janse   Rancho Cucamonga
ALERT***Went to Frustration today 11/13/16. My wife and I were the first to show up followed by some local dudes, and one of their wives and a child, then a couple that looked about college age showed up. We were climbing middle tier right and the couple came up and climbed the same area. After a while We all rapped down and climbed some stuff on lower tier, then an hour later the couple said they were leaving as I was starting an ascent on Soul slab. Immediately they came back and said on my gosh our car is GONE and somebody's window is smashed out. Well long story short their car was stolen and one of the local dude's windows had been smashed out and stuff taken from the front seat. We felt fortunate that nothing happened to our car. Please be aware when climbing up there. Keep an eye out for anything suspicious. This happened right in that turnout on a Sunday with hundreds of vehicles passing by. What a shame.... : ( Nov 13, 2016
Alex Fletcher
Anaheim, CA
Alex Fletcher   Anaheim, CA
Public Service Announcement: On September 29th, 2016, my partner and I were taking a break between routes to eat in the Upper Tier at the corner where Good Girls starts. I was sitting down on a rock against the wall and heard a rumbling up high on the right side of the waterfall near where there are currently two fixed ropes hanging down. I looked up and saw sailing through mid air a large rock about the size of a melon among lots of other debris. Hoooolyyy S*** came out of my mouth rather than Rock! but the meaning was clear. My partner and I made ourselves as small as possible against the wall while all around us rained lethal sized and amounts of land slide for approximately the next 60 seconds. When the thundering noise came to an end finally we started to gather ourselves back together. Looking around there was freshly shattered granite all around including in particular at least one small fist sized rock that landed on our rope bag not more than three feet away. This rock and many others like it was decomposing and able to be crushed under the pressure of squeezing by hand meaning that it was probably much larger while free falling only shattering once it impacted the ground.

Fortunately neither of us was hurt and only one other person was in the valley down by the lower tier out of the way of anything coming down hard. This was a pretty solid reminder why we wear helmets and to always be cautious especially in areas known for their less than preferable quality of rock.

We believe the event was triggered by an animal, possibly a rather fat set of crows that we spotted moments before on the ground nearby.

Please always wear a helmet Sep 30, 2016
Found shoes - On September 24, 2016 we found a pair of shoes at the Lower Tier of Frustration Creek. Message me with brand, style, size, and condition and I will try and get them back to you. Sep 26, 2016
Here's a little overview climbing video guide of Frustration Creek.

youtube.com/watch?v=GC-QiUc… Apr 1, 2016
@Michael DeNicola - If you were on sidewalk ledge the route you said was a blast would have been on the "headwall" mountainproject.com/v/the-h…. The fastest way to the sidewalk ledge is by climbing Curbie (5.8) mountainproject.com/v/curbi… Apr 1, 2016
I recently did the multi pitch on Super Soul Slab and was delighted to find the crumbly ledge above the 3rd pitch. I then did the second line to the left on the ledge and thought it was a blast. Trouble now is that I can't figure out what that climb or the ledge itself is called. I think it was on the sidewalk ledge but I'm not sure, the climb felt like something in the 10b/c range. I would really like to explore more of the climbs off of that ledge but I would really like to know what they are before pursuing them.

Also is there a faster access to that ledge than super soul slab? It's fun and all but the dirt and the length can get old. Jan 31, 2016
There are a couple of new routs on the right side of the lower tier between "Welcome to Frustration" and "Just the Tip" what are the grades/names? We saw them in progress a few weeks/months ago, climbed a few, lots of fun. Thanks for adding more routes. Jun 3, 2015
Dead Terrorist Update, Hey Everyone due to lots of loose rock pitches 3 and 4 have been completely removed and no more bolts so please dont try to climb it. the first two pitches up to the sniper ledge are still good to go. Hopefully by removing the climb there will be less risk of rockfall from climbers above. I dont want anyone getting hurt on my routes because i dont have to time to go back there to clean them up. May 20, 2015
Isaac T.
Yokosuka, Japan
Isaac T.   Yokosuka, Japan
SCherry - I'd probably head up to Thomas Hunting Grounds
The dirt road (1N12) to access this area starts right next to the General Store in Angeles Oaks. Also Seven Oaks has a campground, also accessed by a dirt road (can't remember the roads "name" right now) just past the town of Angels Oaks at the big pull out. In Forest Falls you might be able to get away with bivying in your car at either Momeyer or Vivian Creek Trailheads as long as you were discreet... Jun 19, 2014
SCherry
Boulder, CO
SCherry   Boulder, CO
Anyone know where the closest camping is to Frustration? I'm assuming up the hill but any free bivys nearby? May 14, 2014
How is the Poison Ivy factor at the creek? Sounds like a perfect blend for the horrid plant to grow... Water and sun/shade combo. :(

- G May 20, 2013
new easy multipitch. heres the beta


picasaweb.google.com/114665… Oct 16, 2012
Aaron Lawrence
Redlands
Aaron Lawrence   Redlands
flash flooded again. 5 ft. of sand and rock at bottom, drain is full of silt. the top level looks clean, but the routes have 1/2 inch of silt on them, besides that i didnt see any route damage. Aug 14, 2012

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