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Routes in Al's Garage

Acrophobia S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Aviary S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chase the Dragon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chronic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dharma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Side Days S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Side Daze S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jhana S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Karma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kill The Buddha S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middle Way S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
On the Fringe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Samadhi S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sangha S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sound of One Hand Slapping S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Triple Delight S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Vertigo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wake-n-Bake S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yin and Yang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a


The volcanic tuff cliff faces South West and has a good collection of moderate sport routes. The climbing is similar to Clarks Canyon, perhaps not quite as steep.

The cliff is split into two main sections, left and right of a tower in the middle of the cliff.

Getting There

Drive North from Mammoth Lakes on the 395 for 7.5 miles. Shortly after a rest area turn right onto Owens River Road, follow this for 2 miles until you can turn Left into Big Springs Campground.

Follow this for 2.2 miles, until you can turn right onto 2S06. Follow this road 1.5 miles, to where the 1S47 joins from the left, continue on for another 1/2 mile (the road is rough here), until a small meadow is reached. Turn Left here, and follow the road to its end (1/2 mile).

The cliff is up the hillside on the right.

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The crag is located at GPS latitude longitude approx (N37.7747 W118.9251).
Parking is at (N37.7741 W118.9267).

The "Al" of this climbing garage is Alan Hirahara, who explored and bolted most of the routes in the early part of the 2000 decade.

driving: The instructions above are basically correct. A slightly different perspective is to ...
take the usual Clark Canyon access dirt road, and _do_ need to drive down the bumpy / rutted hill -- which is often difficult for non-high-clearance vehicles to get back up to get out.

About 0.2 mile after the bumpy / rutted, start curving right through a flat section, and around (N37.7678 W118.9246) see another less-traveled dirt road and turn Left onto that and roughly N to its end for parking.

hiking up to the cliff: Turn _full_ Right 90 degrees from the direction you finished driving in, and head up the hill -- not gentle, but not real steep -- about 220 vertical feet uphill over 650 ft distance. Jul 23, 2017
Loved the climbing, bolting not so much. Sep 14, 2015
While there are some very well bolted lines here, there are also some poorly thought out and contrived lines as well. For example, after climbing several of the routes on the right side of the wall, you may look up and realize that many of them begin in the absolutely wrong place, where the line to the left (or right) traverses in above the current line. Actually, it also looked like the more natural line was avoided in some cases because it was harder and an easier but more obtuse or contrived line was chosen instead.

It seems like some contrived bolting has been done here to squeeze lines in a certain way, when they would have been much more natural bolted straight up. Just me two cents.

The left side of the wall is not like this, and hosts well-bolted natural lines that make perfect sense. Hard to believe the same guy bolted these, or maybe he just rushed some of the lines and realized later that he messed up here and there. Mar 1, 2015
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Great fun area and well worth a trip especially if you're concerned about the road and/or crowds at neighboring Clark Canyon. The routes are clean, thoughtfully put up and well worth doing. Al picked all the cherries over a decade ago where development seems to have stopped. No crowding or grid-bolting here, just good solid lines! Aug 30, 2013

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