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m. Crevice right, and Psycho Wall
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Home to the best 5.8 route in Peterskill - as well as two sets of anchor bolts - this wall is frequently occupied. This wall also boasts the ONLY set of anchor bolts capable of rappeling from; in fact, it's a favorite spot for guides to teach their clients how to rappel.
Leave upper parking lot from far end, walk through meadow and past stream, come to large clearing. See footpath straight ahead; follow path until it enters the woods, then angle off to the right - you're heading towards an alcove (giant dihedral) with a crevice at its apex and a large crack in the right wall. Psycho Wall is the right wall of this alcove.