Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Lost Arrow Spire

California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Yosemite Falls Area
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Tremendous exposure. This is a great route to prepare you for aiding on big walls. The route requires passing a knot as you have to rappel into the notch with 2 ropes tied together.

Getting There

From Camp 4 take the trail to the top of Yosemite Falls. At the top, cross the creek and follow second-class slabs along the rim and you'll see the spire (be careful if you slip -- you die...)

Routes from Left to Right

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Lost Arrow Chimney
Trad 10 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
 24
Lost Arrow Spire Direct
Trad, Aid 16 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
 94
Lost Arrow Tip
Trad, Aid 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lost Arrow Chimney
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 10 pitches
Lost Arrow Spire Direct
 24
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 Trad, Aid 16 pitches
Lost Arrow Tip
 94
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 Trad, Aid 2 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lost Arrow Spire, intermediate belay on the 2nd pitch. Photo taken by Trey Lancaster, Climber: Cole Stanley
[Hide Photo] Lost Arrow Spire, intermediate belay on the 2nd pitch. Photo taken by Trey Lancaster, Climber: Cole Stanley
Lost Arrow Spire, finishing the Tyrolean using the "swing" technique
[Hide Photo] Lost Arrow Spire, finishing the Tyrolean using the "swing" technique
in the moment<br>
<br>
May 2012
[Hide Photo] in the moment May 2012
Onsight slack line setup...No send :(
[Hide Photo] Onsight slack line setup...No send :(
Yosemite Falls and Lost Arrow Spire
[Hide Photo] Yosemite Falls and Lost Arrow Spire
The Lost Arrow Spire.  The Chimney ascends the groove on the left in the shade.  Harding's direct route leapfrogs the ledges up the front.
[Hide Photo] The Lost Arrow Spire. The Chimney ascends the groove on the left in the shade. Harding's direct route leapfrogs the ledges up the front.
Tyrolian Traverse off Lost Arrow Spire.
[Hide Photo] Tyrolian Traverse off Lost Arrow Spire.
Rappelling down to the Notch to begin the climb up Lost Arrow Tip
[Hide Photo] Rappelling down to the Notch to begin the climb up Lost Arrow Tip
Lenny on Lost Arrow Spire Tip
[Hide Photo] Lenny on Lost Arrow Spire Tip
pitch 2 with yosemite falls
[Hide Photo] pitch 2 with yosemite falls
Pitch 1
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1
roping up with igor
[Hide Photo] roping up with igor

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
[Hide Comment] It's open again as of 8/15/2015. Aug 19, 2015
Clayton Knudson
Moab, UT
[Hide Comment] Fun route, first wall for me. Can easily be done in two days, we spent a second night at the notch and had friends meet up with us the next morning via the falls trail to set up the tyrolean. Great way to end a wall with all of your friends hanging out, think we got 14 people across the tyrolean that day. Gets super windy at night right after sunset, plan accordingly. We brought a tent for the first bivy (pitch 8) and tied it down to cams and nuts in the cracks of the ledge.

Hauling was a pain on a couple of pitches, try to figure out a way to keep your bag out of the chimneys on pitch 8. If you clip your haul line to the bolt on the last section of 5.5 heading to the ledge the second should be able to help flip the haulbag onto the face and keep it from getting stuck. The bivy at pitch 12 would be tight for three but is possible, Salathe ledge is bigger but much more exposed. We had virtually no wind at pitch 12.

Spring of 2015 we didn't see any major anchor issues and bolts were in good condition. Offset cams and nuts help a ton on this climb. Aug 31, 2015
Loganator
blue van, on the highway to no
[Hide Comment] I recall a very large, loose block on the traversing pitch before the notch. I believe the guide book calls it 5.10R or C2 (C2+?). It was as big as a coffee table, and teetered when I put a #2 cam behind it. Maybe it is one of those moving chockstones that is actually wedged in there? Who knows, it would fall right down towards the horse stables if it blew. Easy to avoid, just be careful! Apr 20, 2016