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Routes in Lost Arrow Spire

Lost Arrow Chimney T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lost Arrow Spire Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Lost Arrow Tip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2

Description

Tremendous exposure. This is a great route to prepare you for aiding on big walls. The route requires passing a knot as you have to rappel into the notch with 2 ropes tied together.
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Getting There

From Camp 4 take the trail to the top of Yosemite Falls. At the top, cross the creek and follow second-class slabs along the rim and you'll see the spire (be careful if you slip -- you die...)

3 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lost Arrow Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Loganator
blue van, on the highway to no
Loganator   blue van, on the highway to no
I recall a very large, loose block on the traversing pitch before the notch. I believe the guide book calls it 5.10R or C2 (C2+?). It was as big as a coffee table, and teetered when I put a #2 cam behind it. Maybe it is one of those moving chockstones that is actually wedged in there? Who knows, it would fall right down towards the horse stables if it blew. Easy to avoid, just be careful! Apr 20, 2016
Clayton Knudson
Moab, UT
Clayton Knudson   Moab, UT
Fun route, first wall for me. Can easily be done in two days, we spent a second night at the notch and had friends meet up with us the next morning via the falls trail to set up the tyrolean. Great way to end a wall with all of your friends hanging out, think we got 14 people across the tyrolean that day. Gets super windy at night right after sunset, plan accordingly. We brought a tent for the first bivy (pitch 8) and tied it down to cams and nuts in the cracks of the ledge.

Hauling was a pain on a couple of pitches, try to figure out a way to keep your bag out of the chimneys on pitch 8. If you clip your haul line to the bolt on the last section of 5.5 heading to the ledge the second should be able to help flip the haulbag onto the face and keep it from getting stuck. The bivy at pitch 12 would be tight for three but is possible, Salathe ledge is bigger but much more exposed. We had virtually no wind at pitch 12.

Spring of 2015 we didn't see any major anchor issues and bolts were in good condition. Offset cams and nuts help a ton on this climb. Aug 31, 2015
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
It's open again as of 8/15/2015. Aug 19, 2015

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