Elevation: 9,334 ft
GPS: 37.596, -119.014 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 10,200 total · 70/month
Shared By: Tom Helvie on Jan 23, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

Although the routes on the North face are a bit shorter, they are also quite good. Some of the older, slabbier climbs are a little sporty. There are a couple of easy 5th class climb ups to access anchors for toproping.

Getting There

Near the top of the trail take the right fork and head up the talus field to the base of the North face.

14 Total Climbs

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Location: North Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at North Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
● Mr. D.N.A.
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
● It's All in the Genes
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 32
● Mongoloid
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 30
● Double Ender
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 23
● Quick Lick
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 38
● Black Leather
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 3
● Dominatrix
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 17
● Lesbie Friends
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 11
● Going Both Ways
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 12
● Strap-On Tools
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
● Feather Ruffler
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Mr. D.N.A.
 20
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● It's All in the Genes
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Mongoloid
 32
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Double Ender
 30
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Quick Lick
 23
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Black Leather
 38
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Dominatrix
 3
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad
● Lesbie Friends
 17
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Going Both Ways
 11
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Strap-On Tools
 12
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Feather Ruffler
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in North Face »

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North Face of Dike Wall from the Crystal Lake trail.
North Face of Dike Wall from the Crystal Lake t…
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The North Face of Dike Wall as seen from Lake George.
The North Face of Dike Wall as seen from Lake G…
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1 Comment

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kenr
kenr  
Top-Roping access ...
The short access to the top of the cliffs is by two climbs rated 5.6 and 5.7 in the most recent print guidebook. There might or might not be an easier access far up toward the West which would go well above the top of the wall, and then you'd have to find your way back down and hope you could reach the top anchors for your desired climbing routes.

So if you're not feeling brave to solo 5.6 or 5.7 as your first climbing of the day, bring a selection of small-to-medium stoppers and cams up to 2 inches to do a trad lead of the 5.6 route. Not sure how easy to connect across the top of the cliff between top of the left side and the top anchors for the right side routes. Aug 10, 2014