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Routes in Family Boulder

Description

This 10' high boulder has four less than vertical problems on its southeast face. The rock quality is great, although the slabby feet are somewhat polished on the popular problems. There are seldom crowds here, but the cheering section on White Rastafarian just behind is readily heard.

There is some question as to names of the problems here. The Vogel guide lists the problems, including one omitted from the Miramontes guide, "Family Feud", whereas the Miramontes includes one "Little Sister" not in the Vogel. With a rough diagram in Vogel, it is hard to pin down the exact location of the problems, but it appears that "Family Fued" is on the arete itself and "Hows Your Papa" just to the right. It appears Miramontes has shifted the names to the left, calling the arete problem "How's Your Papa", added another problem in the middle of the face, and re-named the far right problem "Little Sister". Hopefully Randy or another longtime local can clear this up.

For now, I will use the Miramontes names, as the pictures in his guide show the problems in detail, making referencing easier, and dedicated boulderers will likely have access to this guide. If the Miramontes names turn out to mistaken, I will edit this section to show the correct historical names.

Getting There

The boulder is located about 50 feet south of White Rastafarian. Approach from either the back loop of HVCG by walking north for three minutes, or from the main HVCG loop by walking north from the top of the loop into the Outback and countouring to the right around the NW end of the Rock Hudson formation, passing the obvious low roof problem "Roof Romp", then continuing southeast.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Family Boulder

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