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The best pure friction climbing in the Northeast. Often run out and bold, but always fun and exciting. Routes like Sliding Board and Standard Route see the crowds, but I've never climbed a bad route in this area.
The slabs are located on the north end of the cliff, very sunny for the first half of the day. You'll bake in the sun on a hot summer day. but be on the look out for rain clouds when you are run out 100ft on a seemingly innocent bit of friction, it can get slick.
Some of the most popular routes start from the "launch pad," a platform of rock about a 100ft off the ground located in the middle of the slab. It is an easy walk up to the launch pad, so most folks don't rope up until this point.
There are many other starts along the base of the cliff, but most routes start with a poorly or unprotected climb up moderate friction to the first anchor. The starts will be described in the routes description.
From the hotel parking lot trail entrance, walk less than a minute to the HUGE slab in front of you.... Just to your right is the Beginner Route (5.5). Slightly up and left is the launch pad. Further left you will find the other slab climbs like Sea of Holds (5.7) and many more....
The usual descent if you top out is to hike down. To hike down you have to find the yellow blazed hiking trail. Look for an unmarked path breaking left into the woods about 100 ft climbers-right from the top of the climb, at the northern part of the top, flat part of the slab. Follow this path, it makes a couple of moves up grungy rock, to the yellow blazed hiking trail. Follow this north ( towards Cathedral) for about 1/2 mile to junction with the trail up. Cathedral. Turn right, downhill and in another 1/2 mile or so you’ll intercept an old logging road at an overgrown field. Turn right and follow this back to the base of the slabs.
Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
---|---|---|---|---|
● Waiting for Comeau |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad | ||
● Man O War |
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 3 pitches | ||
● Crazy Horse |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 2 pitches | ||
● The Miner-Joseph-King Dike… |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 2 pitches | ||
● Dark Horse |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 2 pitches | ||
● Pathfinder |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 5 pitches | ||
● The Dike Route |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 10 pitches | ||
● Stadtmüller-Griffin |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 6 pitches | ||
● The White Zone |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad | ||
● Sea of Holes |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches | ||
● Slipshod |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad | ||
● The Flake |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 4 pitches | ||
● Fingertip Trip |
|
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R Trad 3 pitches | ||
● The Booklet |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad | ||
● Wedge |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 5 pitches | ||
● Interloper |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad 7 pitches | ||
● Sliding Board |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 9 pitches | ||
● Tidal Wave |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad, Sport 2 pitches | ||
● Black Jade |
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad | ||
● Wave Length |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches | ||
● Standard Route |
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R Trad 9 pitches | ||
● Slabs Direct |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 4 pitches | ||
● Stop if you Dare |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad | ||
● South Buttress of Wankers Wall |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad | ||
● The Ninth Wave |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad 5 pitches | ||
● Wave Bye Bye |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X Trad | ||
● White Wilderness |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X Trad 10 pitches | ||
● Beginners Direct |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 2 pitches | ||
● Beginners Route |
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R Trad 10 pitches | ||
● The Cormier-Magness Route |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 8 pitches | ||
● The Cormier-Magness Indirect |
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches | ||
● Upper Right Ramp |
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R Trad | ||
● Beginners Easy Variation |
|
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 8 pitches | ||
● Girdle Traverse of Whitehor… |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 PG13 Trad, Aid 18 pitches | ||
● Kettle Call |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad | ||
● Creepy Cowboy |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches |
Manchester NH
Allenstown, NH... and a van…