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7. The Slabs

New Hampshire > Whitehorse Ledge

Description

The best pure friction climbing in the Northeast. Often run out and bold, but always fun and exciting. Routes like Sliding Board and Standard Route see the crowds, but I've never climbed a bad route in this area.

The slabs are located on the north end of the cliff, very sunny for the first half of the day. You'll bake in the sun on a hot summer day. but be on the  look out for rain clouds when you are run out 100ft on a seemingly innocent bit of friction, it can get slick.

Some of the most popular routes start from the "launch pad," a platform of rock about a 100ft off the ground located in the middle of the slab. It is an easy walk up to the launch pad, so most folks don't rope up until this point.

There are many other starts along the base of the cliff, but most routes start with a poorly or unprotected climb up moderate friction to the first anchor. The starts will be described in the routes description.

Getting There

From the hotel parking lot trail entrance, walk less than a minute to the HUGE slab in front of you.... Just to your right is the Beginner Route (5.5). Slightly up and left is the launch pad. Further left you will find the other slab climbs like Sea of Holds (5.7) and many more....

The usual descent if you top out is to hike down. To hike down you have to find the yellow blazed hiking trail. Look for an unmarked path breaking left into the woods about 100 ft climbers-right from the top of the climb, at the northern part of the top, flat part of the slab. Follow this path, it makes a couple of moves up grungy rock, to the yellow blazed hiking trail. Follow this north ( towards Cathedral) for about 1/2 mile to junction with the trail up. Cathedral. Turn right, downhill and in another 1/2 mile or so you’ll intercept an old logging road at an overgrown field. Turn right and follow this back to the base of the slabs.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 18
Waiting for Comeau
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 1
Man O War
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 1
Crazy Horse
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 5
The Miner-Joseph-King Dike (aka…
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 8
Dark Horse
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 5
Pathfinder
Trad 5 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 19
The Dike Route
Trad 10 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 4
Stadtmüller-Griffin
Trad 6 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
The White Zone
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 84
Sea of Holes
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 2
Slipshod
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 1
The Flake
Trad 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
 2
Fingertip Trip
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
The Booklet
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 26
Wedge
Trad 5 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 15
Interloper
Trad 7 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 193
Sliding Board
Trad 9 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 3
Tidal Wave
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Black Jade
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 49
Wave Length
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
 344
Standard Route
Trad 9 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 52
Slabs Direct
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 6
Stop if you Dare
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 4
South Buttress of Wankers Wall
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 6
The Ninth Wave
Trad 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
 5
Wave Bye Bye
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
 2
White Wilderness
Trad 10 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 10
Beginners Direct
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
 100
Beginners Route
Trad 10 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 167
The Cormier-Magness Route
Trad 8 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
The Cormier-Magness Indirect
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
 2
Upper Right Ramp
Trad
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 48
Beginners Easy Variation
Trad 8 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 PG13
 6
Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge
Trad, Aid 18 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 15
Kettle Call
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 24
Creepy Cowboy
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Waiting for Comeau
 18
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Man O War
 1
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 3 pitches
Crazy Horse
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 2 pitches
The Miner-Joseph-King Dike…
 5
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 2 pitches
Dark Horse
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 2 pitches
Pathfinder
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 5 pitches
The Dike Route
 19
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 10 pitches
Stadtmüller-Griffin
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 6 pitches
The White Zone
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Sea of Holes
 84
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Slipshod
 2
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Flake
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Fingertip Trip
 2
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R Trad 3 pitches
The Booklet
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Wedge
 26
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 5 pitches
Interloper
 15
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad 7 pitches
Sliding Board
 193
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 9 pitches
Tidal Wave
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Black Jade
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Wave Length
 49
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Standard Route
 344
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R Trad 9 pitches
Slabs Direct
 52
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 4 pitches
Stop if you Dare
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
South Buttress of Wankers Wall
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
The Ninth Wave
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad 5 pitches
Wave Bye Bye
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X Trad
White Wilderness
 2
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X Trad 10 pitches
Beginners Direct
 10
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 2 pitches
Beginners Route
 100
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R Trad 10 pitches
The Cormier-Magness Route
 167
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 8 pitches
The Cormier-Magness Indirect
 12
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Upper Right Ramp
 2
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R Trad
Beginners Easy Variation
 48
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 8 pitches
Girdle Traverse of Whitehor…
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 PG13 Trad, Aid 18 pitches
Kettle Call
 15
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad
Creepy Cowboy
 24
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Starting up the slabs.
[Hide Photo] Starting up the slabs.
The Slabs from Echo Lake.
[Hide Photo] The Slabs from Echo Lake.
Echo Lake
[Hide Photo] Echo Lake
Super pretty colors. Awesome day out with Steven, Josh, and Erika :)  Photo by Josh Linker 2019
[Hide Photo] Super pretty colors. Awesome day out with Steven, Josh, and Erika :) Photo by Josh Linker 2019
Zackary getting pumped about climbing
[Hide Photo] Zackary getting pumped about climbing
Busy day on standard arch we finished before the five party's you see. Photo by Loran Smith
[Hide Photo] Busy day on standard arch we finished before the five party's you see. Photo by Loran Smith
Look even the tree wants to climb it was so nice
[Hide Photo] Look even the tree wants to climb it was so nice
what a outstanding day in march. this was from beginners route
[Hide Photo] what a outstanding day in march. this was from beginners route
Courtney on belay from the beginners route
[Hide Photo] Courtney on belay from the beginners route
The Slabs from the top of Cathedral.
[Hide Photo] The Slabs from the top of Cathedral.
Looking up the slabs from the base.
[Hide Photo] Looking up the slabs from the base.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
[Hide Comment] what is the hardest route on the slabs? Jan 18, 2008
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
[Hide Comment] There are a couple routes that check in at a higher grade on the slabs but the hard slab classic is Interloper (5.10c R)... If I ever get the balls to climb it (I plan to) I'll be sure to put it up on MP... Jan 18, 2008