Taking other people's content (text, photos, etc) without permission is a copyright violation and NOT OKAY!
Just left and slightly up hill from The Meadows is a small crag made up of three mini walls and in the middle is one of Rumney's finest 5.11s (Apocalypse Later 5.11c). This area contains sport routes from 5.4 (Kate's Arete) to 5.12d (Bad Seed). It shares many of the qualities of the Meadows, being shaded in the summer, and having the same rock quality since it is part of the same band of rock. The big difference is that it is much steeper than its close neighbor making the routes a bit harder. This area is the place to go for 5.11's if you don't like to hike.
I personally like that it is close to the parking lot but doesn't seem to get the traffic that the Meadows gets. So if I'm doing a quick session on a busy day I can run over to Apocalypse, warm up on Serenity Now (5.7) then run up some quality harder routes and be back in time for tea.
The left most side of the cliff is usually wet so I suggest a rope bag or tarp.
From the main lot, walk down the road for a minute or so and turn right up a trail toward the left side of The Meadows. Follow the trail to the left up the hill for another 30 seconds and you are there.
| Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ● An Elephant Never Forgets |
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 PG13 Trad, Aid | ||
| ● They Come and They Go |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 2 pitches | ||
| ● Supreme Onion Sacrifice |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● Serenity Now |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport | ||
| ● Apocalypse Later |
|
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
| ● Bad Seed |
|
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport | ||
| ● Good Earth |
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport | ||
| ● Kate's Arete |
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Sport | ||
| ● Captain Fingers |
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport | ||
| ● Corporal Punishment |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport |