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Routes in Bates Boulder aka Fairy Rock

Elevation: 160 ft
GPS: 42.311, -71.311 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,914 total · 28/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 13, 2007
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle
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Description [Suggest Change]

This rock is listed in both Rock ‘n Road and Boston Rocks. IMHO, this is not worth the effort of finding this chunk of rock. Toula describes it as “Unbelievable. Horizontal pile. Feeble.” It is included for completion and perhaps to save you the gas or effort. It seemed only 6-10 feet tall. Funny, there is even a separate listing at the New England bouldering website for this rock! Apparently, the rock is owned by the town. Supposedly, it is the largest boulder in the area.

L->R (starting at the S end, going clockwise):

A. Slab Stick
B. Let’s Face It, 4
CD. Fairyation, 6
D. Fairy Rings, 8
E. Fruit Market, 7+
F. Tutti Fruitti, 7

North Face
G. Misfit, 9
H. Fairies, Only, 10-
I. Iron Cross, 10
J. Radish, 9
K. The Loop, 8

East Face
L. Mickey’'s, 6

This is a combination of submissions. We consolidated to avoid confusion and improve quality.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

It is near the Bates Elementary School 3 blocks north of Route 9, west of Boston. It took a while to find this boulder...it was a disappointment to find it.

Per Bjorn: Exit off Route 9 at Weston Road. Head toward Weston on Weston Rd -- this will be a R if exiting off westbound, a left if exiting off eastbound. Go 1/4 to 1/2 a mile, R on Elmwood Rd. After not quite 1/2 a mile you will pass a church on the left then go over a wetland/creek then see a gravel turnoff for a town park of sorts. Park here. Walk into the woods on the most prominent path you see. Do not be distracted by smaller creekside paths. Ahead, a few tenths of a mile, you will see the rock on your left. Climb whatever looks good on it.

Per Will Ryan: take a right off the main trail. It is right inside the tree line.

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Bjorn
WNC
Bjorn   WNC
These directions are a bit lacking.

Exit off Route 9 at Weston Road. Head toward Weston on Weston Rd -- this will be a R if exiting off westbound, a L if exiting off eastbound. Go 1/4 to 1/2 a mile, R on Elmwood Rd. After not quite 1/2 a mile you will pass a church on the left then go over a wetland/creek then see a gravel turnoff for a town park of sorts. Park here. Walk into the woods on the most prominent path you see. Do not be distracted by smaller creekside paths. Ahead, a few tenths of a mile, you will see the rock on your left. Climb whatever looks good on it.
As to the disappointment of finding it: Let's be clear. BB is NOT a climbing destination. Disappointment WILL result if you've come from afar to spend a long weekend climbing here. But, if you happen to live in Wellesley or Weston or other neighboring towns, BB is not unworthy in the objective of providing quality climbing moves on a quality granite boulder. Climb the right arete. Climb the middle of the steep face. Practice hard mantles. Entertain yourself by eliminating holds and adding sitstarts. Traversing the steep face is HARD and demanding.
Pity there aren't other boulders like it. But there aren't. Dec 24, 2008
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
One of the most useless chunks of rock anywhere. Mar 30, 2010
Bjorn
WNC
Bjorn   WNC
The usefulness or uselessness of this lone boulder in Wellesley shouldn't affect you much if you live in southern Colorado, John. It so happens the Bates Boulder has a rather humble but still relevant use: It's a small sample of good granite on which one can get some moves in without breathing chalk-saturated gym air. Not a destination, but certainly not useless, an adjective I might sooner turn around to describe you, John Strand, or certainly this down-in-the-dumps online persona of yours. If you've got nothing relevant or constructive to say, shut your ballwash. If you've become an arthritic old curmudgeon who's replaced climbing with online spraying about matters peripheral to climbing, then I feel sorry for you. Oct 21, 2010
The description and comments on this boulder are quite harsh. Is this a destination area with the most classic lines in the region? No. It is, however, a nice quality chunk of stone with fun and reasonable easy problems on it. If you're nearby and interested in V0-V1 lines, check it out. If not, skip it. I don't really see the use of insulting a rock, but if that's your style, whatever. Feb 27, 2013
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Bjorn, take a chill, dude! You must have been having a bad day on October 21 of 2010, when you viciously attacked the legendary Strandman for making a funny comment about good ol' Fairy Rock. I live within a few miles of Fairy Rock, and I climb there every once in a while, but everybody knows that the place is not exactly El Cap. I hope that you've successfully dealt with your anger management issues in the last three years . . . . Sep 5, 2013
Will Ryan
New England
Will Ryan   New England
The way all the routes are organized on this page is if you stand at the back side of this boulder and look toward the path. Look at the picture with the snow on the ground for the correct viewpoint. Oct 26, 2016

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