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Montana

Description

A big state with lots of climbing.

Getting There

Look on the map; it is near Idaho and Wyoming.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Doublets during a midwinter storm.
[Hide Photo] The Doublets during a midwinter storm.
granite arch
[Hide Photo] granite arch
Another example of the lousy climbing in Montana!
[Hide Photo] Another example of the lousy climbing in Montana!
cali ice
[Hide Photo] cali ice
An interesting long route we climbed near Missoula
[Hide Photo] An interesting long route we climbed near Missoula
Goat.
[Hide Photo] Goat.
Northside limestone looks to be bomber.
[Hide Photo] Northside limestone looks to be bomber.
1st tier, 2nd tier.
[Hide Photo] 1st tier, 2nd tier.
the bear's face?
[Hide Photo] the bear's face?
Dearborn DWS
[Hide Photo] Dearborn DWS
Stryker climbing.  mosquitoes in the shade.
[Hide Photo] Stryker climbing. mosquitoes in the shade.
Summit plateau would be nice for camping if the wind would quit.
[Hide Photo] Summit plateau would be nice for camping if the wind would quit.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Why is it that folks are so sercretive about climbing in Montana, are there access issues, or do people just want it to stay low-key and uncrowded? May 25, 2007
Braxtron
...
[Hide Comment] The climbing scene may be under the radar, but you just have to make friends with a couple of climbers (by supplying them with copious amounts of beer and meat, preferably Elk) and you'll easily get all the info you need. Jul 5, 2008
[Hide Comment] It is really strange how Montanans want to keep areas a secret. I lived in Bozeman for ten years and climb about everywhere in the guide books and other areas not in guide books. Compared to other destination areas in the USA I do not see the big deal. I have never found one specfic area in Montana that I would consider a "Destination Climbing area" such as Red Rocks, City of Rocks, the Sierras or the Rockies. Just a smattering of crags here and there with lots of road between them. There is climbing south of great falls in White Sulfur Springs. A hand full of routes on the Stone Temples. Hard to find, hard to get too unless you know the area or Ron Brunkhorst. However I would take Jons advice. Get a guide book and go if you are so inclined. However I live in Fort Collins and I would take Lumpy Ridge Climbing over anything in Montana. Super solid Granite, hundreds of routes, up to six pitches, beautiful abundant long splitters and very few people unless you are doing a hand full of classics. People do not seem to like climbing without bolts nor bolt stations that much. Or go do a wall in the backcountry of Rocky Mountain National Park. Some areas you would be lucky to find another party. Aug 29, 2008
[Hide Comment] Is there much bouldering near bozeman. Or any good spots in the state? Jun 5, 2010
EChristensen
Bozeman
[Hide Comment] Josh -
There's not much bouldering near Bozeman, but there's a lot starting about an hour from town. Yankee Jim Canyon has a bunch of stuff and there's a free guide that Bozeman locals Jeff Ho and Jeff Webber put together available online on my site: boulderingmontana.com The other large area is the massive boulder batholith between Whitehall and Butte. There's basically unlimited bouldering in the batholith, with Whiskey Gulch being the largest and oldest established area. Check out my site and Bouldering the Backwaters for more info, vids, photos, etc. Spire Climbing Center has a beta book as well that has info on some of the random boulders that are close to town. Jun 7, 2010
W.S.
Montana
[Hide Comment] Potential visitors to MT should be aware of the strict do-not-publish ethic that has prevailed here since the beginning of technical rock climbing. Internet info and to a lesser extent published guidebooks tend to be a poor representation of what's here. So make friends, buy beer, and explore! Sep 19, 2010
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
[Hide Comment] WS, I can't tell if you're tongue is in your cheek or not. The idea that Montanans all still adhere to the "do not publish" ethic you speak of is antiquated and not at all a good representation of most Montanans. Look at this year's AAJ for instance. Dec 27, 2010
Dan Bachen
Helena, MT
[Hide Comment] Anyone have any beta on the long stuff up the trail in Kootenai Creek? Mar 31, 2011
Of little faith
Monf***ingtana
[Hide Comment] i might have some info on the stuff up kootenai, depends on how far up you are talking about. which side of the creek? Apr 19, 2011
Dan Bachen
Helena, MT
[Hide Comment] Was curious about the walls on the north side. There's a tower-like formation I hiked past beyond sick bay with bolts, kinda looked like an easter island statue. Also was interested in the big cliffs about a mile up (Chief Charlo?). Apr 22, 2011
Of little faith
Monf***ingtana
[Hide Comment] Dan, I've heard about that stuff, but don't have any beta on it. Can't find anything so far, but i do know that there are some multipitch lines that go on that bigger wall, supposed to be fairly moderate. May 6, 2011
[Hide Comment] I climbed/cleaned a few dozen problems up in Blackleaf Canyon back in 2008, nothing online yet, so i guess I respect the no-publishing ethic?!
I find that kinda silly, so you want to keep everything to yourself, but feel cool with using guidebooks for red Rocks, California and gulp, Canada? Selfish?
One day I will put my Blackleaf info online and if you wanna say it's all been climbed you can explain the pre-climbed-choss-intact photos I have.
Love Montana and its climbing!! Feb 26, 2013
EChristensen
Bozeman
[Hide Comment] SW MT Blocs: A Bouldering Guide to Southwest Montana is now available for purchase! The guidebook contains beta for more than 1,000 boulder problems in SW Montana. Areas included are Whiskey Gulch, the Tobacco Roots, the Madison Valley, the Gallatin Canyon, Bozeman Area (Overhangatang & Moonshine Boulders), and Yankee Jim Canyon. More information, including example pages, along with a link to purchase can be found at swmtblocs.com. It is also available at Spire Climbing Center (Bozeman), the Base Camp (Helena & Billings), and Steepworld (Billings). Jul 19, 2015