A long-time Alabama climbing institution, Sand Rock has had a colorful and sometimes dubious history. For many years, it seemed that lowlifes were in direct competition with climbers. Sand Rock was a destination for ATV riders, drunken late-night partiers and other examples of southern stereotypes. Broken beer bottles and overturned portapotties were common sights, and the cliffs were despoiled with spray-painted graffiti.
In recent years, the aesthetics of Sand Rock have vastly improved. Ownership of the site was taken over by Cherokee County which turned it into a county park. Sand Rock now has on-site managers, improved parking, picnic areas, a playground for kids and a nice bathhouse. Much of the litter and graffiti has been cleaned up.
Sand Rock is an excellent destination for climbers at any skill level. Its free-standing pinnacles offer an amazing variety of climbing, ranging from easy toprope jugfests, to crimpy face routes, to fine crack lines. Sport routes run side-by-side with tough trad climbs. Beginners can get easy access to set up topropes, and there's a plethora of good bouldering problems. And the many different areas are spread out enough that you can almost always find a place that isn't crowded. The approach is one of the shortest and easiest in the south -- walk about 100 feet from your car and you'll find yourself at the Pinnacle or Holiday Block.
Climbing at Sand Rock goes back to 1972, when the prolific Rich Gottlieb and friends began snagging FAs on routes like the classic Comfortably Numb. In the 80s, climbers like Curtis Glass, Gene Smith and others established numerous trad lines. Later, bolted routes became more acceptable, and poorly-protected sections of cliff began sprouting sport routes, including the Sun Wall favorite Misty. Johnny Arms has been a major source of new routes since the 90s.
Admission to Sand Rock is currently $7 per car per day. Camping is $18 per night and abundant near the parking lot and along the entrance road; be sure to register at the park office if you plan to camp.
All new bolts should be the proper ClimbTech glue-ins and mussy hook anchors are the new norm. Do I really have to mention that chopping bolts is wrong? When reequipping routes with new hardware, make sure you have some permission and keep the bolt spacing and positioning mostly the same. No one wants what happened to Misty to happen again anywhere else (bolts moved to bad positions, new bolts added where they weren't before, unnecessary, shameful, bolt scars, and completely in defiance of the local community). Also, with the amount of sport routes up already and potential for more, let's keep the established trad routes trad.
Not every route or problem is listed on MP. In fact, several areas are left unlisted for the more adventurous to explore. Anything that has been cleaned up and clearly has chalk on it, (even if it doesn't have chalk) has already been done before and should not be claimed as an FA.
Most of the sandstone at Sandrock is pretty bomber but it is still sandstone and holds do break and shouldn't be climbed on after a rain.
Birmingham, AL
Chattanooga, TN
Birmingham, AL
Al
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
Don't let the above comments disuade you. In my opinion, Sand Rock is definitely worth a stop. Jan 18, 2008
Salt Lake City, UT
Gardendale, Alabama
Alabama
On March 21, (a few weeks ago) I was at S.R. partcipating in the annual clean-up fest. Where were all of you? I personally do something about things that concern me and therefore have very little respect for those who just sit back and complain!
I do agree that alot of visitors disrespect the place. This damage is brought on by kids, non-climbers or very immature climbers to say the least. I try to pick up as I move from one climb to another , every time I go. A bunch of us are going up and painting over the graff. with a faux paint techique as best at we can.
Since you show so much concern...can we expect to see you there? I hope so, we would love to have you. SCC lists the dates of all the clean-ups etc. if anyone is interested in helping.
Sandrock will be destroyed (just like the rest of the earth) if everyone "TURNS UP THEIR NOSES" and DO NOTHING to help preserve it. It is a beautiful place. My brother taught me to climb there, he passed away last year. Some of his ashes were scattered at our fav campsite at that "shitfest" as you so politely put it.
- ************DO something nice for our planet today**************
Apr 4, 2009Lander, WY
Birmingham, AL
I would recommend camping just down the road a bit (perhaps a few hundred meters) from the end of the road to avoid the late night parties that show up. Jul 5, 2010
Bend, OR
Hiram, Ga
Savannah, Georgia
originally da Bayou, now in…
facebook.com/SaveRockCity Oct 14, 2012
There are tons of sports routes with varied difficulties. Climbers are nice. Johnny just set up several routes in "New Wall", which is not presented in new Dixie guidebook. Sand Rock is definitely a valuable spot. Dec 30, 2012
originally da Bayou, now in…
ccparkboard.com/rules-fees/ Mar 11, 2013
Miami
Leesburg, Alabama
Tallulah Falls, GA
Charleston, SC
Arlington, VA
Thanks! Oct 16, 2014
EDIT: Thanks for adding them! Jun 2, 2015
I really hope someone in the SEC steps up to the plate to help update the hardware at Sand Rock. Feb 7, 2016
Birmingham, AL
Leesburg, Alabama
Mobile, AL
Cleveland, TN
SLC, UT
Atlanta, GA
Atlanta, GA
Climbing is such a beautiful sport that is community driven. It’s the community that helps make its safer as everyone chimes in about gear wear out, rock changes, new rules in locations, trail days, access funds and just helping others from getting lost. As this sport continues to get more and more popular, let’s not forget the community of it and enjoy these wonderful climbs with everyone. Welcome in other climbers around you. Share stories, betas and skills on making climbs safer. Share the walls. As all the crags are getting more and more crowded, if you’re with a group of people, try to not hog a classic route for hours. Encourage others that cross by interested, to join in with your group by mixing the groups together, taking turns on the climb. Not only is this just a nice thing to do, but it’ll get the two groups to communicate and mingle. You never know what you will learn from other climbers and you just might create new friends. You already have one awesome thing in common.
Climbing for generations was a skill passed down from experienced mentors to new eager climbers. Normally one mentor taking in one new climber at a time. As this process still exist and is still very vital to climbing, it just can’t keep up with the influx of thousands of new climbers interested in the sport. With so many new climbers missing out on the generations of knowledge, on how and why some things are done, the sport can become reckless. This is more the reason for the community of climbing to remain strong. More the reason to share climbs with other groups. To swap stories and skills that have been learned and passed down. More the reason for climbers to listen to other’s suggestions on how to do things differently. You may even disagree with someones way of doing things, but always thank them for sharing and consider all the pros and cons of their new advice. If you disagree, be open and share why you think otherwise. Because you may become the teacher in that moment to something they haven’t thought of or just over looked. It’s essential that both parties stay open minded. As we are all sharing to keep the sport safe, fun and welcoming.
More importantly, Send It! Mar 7, 2023