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Routes in Mt. Gorgeous

Born on the 4th of July S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Build The Wall S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Burn The Wall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Camel Straight S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cialis Stud S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cig-arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climb it Change S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Commitment Issues S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Crack Horror S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Delicious S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Family Jewel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Feel The Bern S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gorgeous S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Joe's Bloody Finger Pocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
K-2 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Luscious S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Marauding Monkeys S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pow! Right in the Kisser S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swipe Right To Match S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a


Mt. Gorgeous offers some of the longest routes at Malibu Creek State Park and has become one of the most popular destinations within the canyon. This area has a high concentration moderate climbs for the beginner to intermediate level sport climber. This side of the canyon stays in the shade in the morning and due to the canopy of trees the base of routes receive shade beyond midday. Some of the better routes feature short, powerful cruxes on steep terrain. A rack of 15 quickdraws, plus anchors, will be sufficient for climbing at Mt. Gorgeous. Be aware that bees/wasps frequently inhabit the pockets on this wall.

Getting There

Find the 5.5 traverse. Follow the wall up and left into the canyon just after the traverse.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Gorgeous

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Wow, this area is hard to find. Luckily we ran into a couple that pointed it out to us. Immediately after the traverse (5.0, 5.5, who knows) there is a canyon that runs steeply up to the left (assuming you're facing upstream). It runs perpendicular to the stream and the main canyon. You have to scramble over some boulders to find it. That is where this area is.

We didn't even notice that there was a canyon there! Dec 2, 2015
Michael Bartosek
Los Angeles
Michael Bartosek   Los Angeles
I've climbed Scorpion Crack - it has some glue/epoxy in places, but nothing came off. I took one fall on the onsight attempt and that was going for the 5th bolt and I just misjudged the distance. I'm inclined to think 5.10d for this route. It was fun to climb. The route immeadiately left of this is probably a 5.10b/c and is worth a go as well. Nov 9, 2010
Ryan Kelly
Ryan Kelly   work.
According to it's called Scorpion Crack and goes at .11b. Still looked pretty chossy when I saw it several months ago, and it looked like it should be more in the 5.10 range once it cleans up, but I'll hold off judgment until I get on it. Mar 26, 2010
ShaunG Gregg
ShaunG Gregg   SF, CA
There is a "newer" route on the far right of the wall. It starts climbing a flake then pulling onto a chossy slab. Does anyone know what this goes at and what it is called? Jan 3, 2010
Ryan Kelly
Ryan Kelly   work.
It's the 5.0 traverse (the first traverse), if that, over the rock pool. The 5.5 traverse is further down the canyon, on the way to The Ghetto.

Morning shade, afternoon sun. Sep 20, 2007

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