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Routes in Medlicott Dome, Left

Lighter Side, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Loco Yokel T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scorpion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Super Chicken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wailing Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Yawn, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Elevation: 9,000 ft
GPS: 37.86, -119.429 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 11,263 total, 85/month
Shared By: Adam on Dec 31, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

A super quality cliff with mid-day to sunset sun exposure. Most route require face/knob climbing. This area has a mix or old and new classics.
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Getting There

Drive 5.1 miles west from the meadows store to a small pullout on the left (per a newish Reid/Falkenstein guide, '09?).

Hike a climber's trail eastward to a well maintained trail (Tenaya Lake Trail), turn right here and in about 100 yards come to another climber's trail on the left marked with a small cairn.

From here the trail pretty much takes a straight, aerobic, uphill line to the base of the cliff at the Smithers route.

Descent: Walk off southwest and check out the top of this really cool dome. Be very careful not to step on any of the plants who make there hard fought homes on the top.

6 Total Climbs

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Location: Medlicott Dome, Left Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Medlicott Dome, Left

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Chicken
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
The Yawn
Trad 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loco Yokel
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scorpion
Trad 3 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wailing Wall
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Super Chicken 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
The Yawn 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Loco Yokel 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Scorpion 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Wailing Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Medlicott Dome, Left »

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Photos

That approach trail plunges straight down the fall line and will eventually turn into a washed-out gully. It needs to get moved to the lower-angled, rockier terrain to the east beneath Super Chicken. Aug 19, 2008
pkemp  
I am wondering what the climb to the left of Super Chicken is called? (100' dihedral/crack, with 3 bolts, ~5.10)
Thanks for any info. Aug 7, 2008

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