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Areas in Medlicott Area

Dozier Dome 17 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Medlicott Dome, Center 6 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Medlicott Dome, Left 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Medlicott Dome, Right 8 / 10 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Sticks and Stones 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description

Medlicott Dome is perhaps the best crag in Tuolumne with a high concentration of great climbs.

Getting There

For an approach we drove 5.1 miles from the meadows store to a small pullout on the left (per a newish Reid/Falkenstein guide, '09?), hiked a climber's trail eastward to a well maintained trail (Tenaya Lake Trail), turned right here and in about 100 yards came to another climber's trail on the left marked with a small cairn. From here the trail pretty much takes a straight, aerobic, uphill line to the base of the cliff at the Smithers route.

56 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Medlicott Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 138
Holdless Horror
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 29
Errett Out
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 80
Bull Dozier
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 40
Errett By Bit
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 90
Shagadelic
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 42
Isostacy
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 36
Super Chicken
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 25
Felsic
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 31
The Yawn
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 42
Excellent Smithers
Sport 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 24
Cheetos and Everclear
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 17
Ciebola
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
 3
You Asked For It
Trad 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
 5
Bachar-Yerian
Trad 4 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 10
Wailing Wall
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Holdless Horror Dozier Dome
 138
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Errett Out Dozier Dome
 29
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Bull Dozier Dozier Dome
 80
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Errett By Bit Dozier Dome
 40
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Shagadelic Medlicott Dome, Center
 90
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Isostacy Dozier Dome
 42
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 4 pitches
Super Chicken Medlicott Dome, Left
 36
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Felsic Dozier Dome
 25
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Yawn Medlicott Dome, Left
 31
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Excellent Smithers Medlicott Dome, Center
 42
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 4 pitches
Cheetos and Everclear Dozier Dome
 24
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Ciebola Medlicott Dome, Right
 17
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
You Asked For It Medlicott Dome, Right
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X Trad 4 pitches
Bachar-Yerian Medlicott Dome, Right
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X Trad 4 pitches
Wailing Wall Medlicott Dome, Left
 10
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Medlicott Area »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
BCramer
Prescott
BCramer   Prescott
For an approach we drove 5.1 miles from the meadows store to a small pullout on the left (per a newish Reid/Falkenstein guide, '09?), hiked a climber's trail eastward to a well maintained trail (Tenaya Lake Trail), turned right here and in about 100 yards came to another climber's trail on the left marked with a small cairn. From here the trail pretty much takes a straight, aerobic, uphill line to the base of the cliff at the Smithers route. Sep 3, 2014

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