Elevation: 7,000 ft
GPS: 35.702, -105.686 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 73,148 total · 413/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 27, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

Description

Pecos River Canyon is a picturesque granite crag northeast of Santa Fe, NM in the Santa Fe National Forest. The crag offers five separate cliffs of one-pitch, mixed trad and sport climbs on excellent pink-hued granite, nestled among the pines above the trout-filled Pecos River. On a typical weekend day, climbers will be outnumbered by fishermen 3 to 1. This ultimate roadside crag suffers and benefits from its accessibility. Complete solitude will be difficult to attain while belaying from the highway shoulder at Cathedral Rock; however, the dense vegetation and mandatory river crossing can make the Bleachers, only 100 feet distant, feel a world apart.

This crag offers excellent climbing on thin slabs, steep jug hauls, and blocky cracks (usually with a roof or two). This is a haven for the granite face-climbing afficionado, reminiscent of the best rock in the Sandias and Gilman. There are a number of pure trad lines (generally dihedrals), but this crag doesn't have any 'splitter' cracks. The real prime routes are in the 5.9 to 5.11- range, which would make this place popular in any state but NM.

Getting There

From Interstate 25, head north to the town of Pecos. Continue north from Pecos on State Route 63 for about 7.5 miles. The Cathedral, which is the main crag, will appear on the right (E) side of the road, just as the road bends sharply to the left. The Cathedral is 10.5 miles from the intersection of 66 and 63 in Pecos. There is a small, sometimes crowded pullout on the left (W) side of the highway about 25 feet past the Cathedral. Additional parking can be found N and S of the Cathedral at various Forest Service picnic grounds, etc.

71 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pecos River Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 17
Hanging Gardener
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 15
Toss No Moss
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 15
Hard Rock Miner
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 22
Easy Air
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 31
Ooze Move
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Carol’s Route
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 26
Double Roof Dilemma
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Lesbian Thong Trot
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Lucky Boy
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Li'l Darling
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 5
Double Clutch
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Squeeze Job
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 9
[Redacted]
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
MoFo
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 6
Not Tobie
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hanging Gardener Bleachers
 17
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Toss No Moss Bleachers
 15
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Hard Rock Miner Bleachers
 15
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Easy Air Cathedral Rock
 22
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Sport
Ooze Move Cathedral Rock
 31
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Carol’s Route Rim of the World
 6
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Double Roof Dilemma Cathedral Rock
 26
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Lesbian Thong Trot Cathedral Rock
 6
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Lucky Boy Rim of the World
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Li'l Darling Cathedral Rock
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Double Clutch Rim of the World
 5
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Squeeze Job Rim of the World
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
[Redacted] Cathedral Rock
 9
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
MoFo Cathedral Rock
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Not Tobie Rim of the World
 6
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Pecos River Canyon »

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