Mountain Project Logo

Areas in Pecos River Canyon

Bleachers, The 2 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Cathedral Rock 6 / 11 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Cheap Seats, The 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Grandstand, The 2 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Rim of the World, The 2 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Sacristy 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Windy Bridge Picnic Area 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Elevation: 7,000 ft
GPS: 35.702, -105.686 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 23,978 total, 180/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 27, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Pecos River Canyon is a picturesque granite crag northeast of Santa Fe, NM in the Santa Fe National Forest. The crag offers five separate cliffs of one-pitch, mixed trad and sport climbs on excellent pink-hued granite, nestled among the pines above the trout-filled Pecos River. On a typical weekend day, climbers will be outnumbered by fishermen 3 to 1. This ultimate roadside crag suffers and benefits from its accessibility. Complete solitude will be difficult to attain while belaying from the highway shoulder at Cathedral Rock; however, the dense vegetation and mandatory river crossing can make the Bleachers, only 100 feet distant, feel a world apart.

This crag offers excellent climbing on thin slabs, steep jug hauls, and blocky cracks (usually with a roof or two). This is a haven for the granite face-climbing afficionado, reminiscent of the best rock in the Sandias and Gilman. There are a number of pure trad lines (generally dihedrals), but this crag doesn't have any 'splitter' cracks. The real prime routes are in the 5.9 to 5.11- range, which would make this place popular in any state but NM.

Getting There

From Interstate 25, head north to the town of Pecos. Continue north from Pecos on State Route 63 for about 7.5 miles. The Cathedral, which is the main crag, will appear on the right (E) side of the road, just as the road bends sharply to the left. The Cathedral is 10.5 miles from the intersection of 66 and 63 in Pecos. There is a small, sometimes crowded pullout on the left (W) side of the highway about 25 feet past the Cathedral. Additional parking can be found N and S of the Cathedral at various Forest Service picnic grounds, etc.

48 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Pecos River Canyon Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Pecos River Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hanging Gardener
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toss No Moss
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hard Rock Miner
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Easy Air
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ooze Move
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stir It Up
Trad, Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rejuvenating Facial
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Roof Dilemma
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lesbian Thong Trot
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Li'l Darling
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Slapped
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
MoFo
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hanging Gardener Bleachers 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Toss No Moss Bleachers 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Hard Rock Miner Bleachers 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Easy Air Cathedral Rock 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Sport
Ooze Move Cathedral Rock 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Stir It Up Bleachers 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Rejuvenating Facial Cathedral Rock 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Double Roof Dilemma Cathedral Rock 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Lesbian Thong Trot Cathedral Rock 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Li'l Darling Cathedral Rock 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Bitch Slapped Cathedral Rock 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
MoFo Cathedral Rock 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Pecos River Canyon »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Most of the routes at Pecos were put up by Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, Mark Thomas, Chris Kessler, Steve Hattenbach and Bryan Pletta during the years 2000-2005. Apr 17, 2012
yes sir,,,I surley ditto Karls comments........ Nov 12, 2008
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
Randy Carmichael   Boulder, CO
Cathedral Rock is about 10.5 miles from the intersection of 66 and 63 in Pecos. May 10, 2008
There is a section on this climbing area in Marc Beverly's book Jemez Rock (2006) pp. 239-254. I agree that Cathedral near the road lacks location but the area offers a nice change for the hotter summer months. Apr 1, 2008
I'm not sure the term "excellent climbing" really applies to any of the Pecos River Valley Crags, but certainly not the cathedral. The climbs are short for the most part and often contrived and definitely not worthy of being advertised as quality climbing. Some of the rock is very good and some of the routes might be worthy if you were already in the Pecos, but the drive in from the interstate might be too far for anything more than novelty. Jun 20, 2007

More About Pecos River Canyon

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Pecos River Canyon (21)

Most Popular · Newest