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Elevation: 1,789 ft
GPS: 35.87319, -93.04787
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 87,482 total · 415/month
Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Dec 26, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Tyler KC, JD Borgeson

Description Suggest change

The East Main Bluff consists of all the lines from the Hero Maker Wall, by the road, to the Chickenhead Wall, down by the Throne, where the bluff line takes a sharp turn to become the West Main Bluff.

This area faces roughly east, so it has some pretty good climbing in cooler weather, especially fall, but all seasons are good. The rock is the same great sandstone that is found all over this area.

The order of the areas from left to right as seen from the bottom of the climbs is:
Chickenhead Wall
The Prow
Reality Wall
Dead Dog Wall
Energemata Wall
Fraggle Rock Wall
Too Big to Finger Wall
Reader's Digest Wall
Hero Maker Wall

Getting There Suggest change

From the parking lot, hike down the road to the left, ending in a a circle drive. From there, head down a trail towards the east, ending on top of the Chickenhead Wall.

From here, either rap the descent near The Wasp on the West Main Bluff or continue along the top of the East Main Bluff to the Catacomb Walkdown, which involves some downclimbing in a chimney.

78 Total Climbs

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Location: 4. East Main Bluff Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at East Main Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 34
Slam Dance
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 38
Blackberry Blossom (a.k.a. Smoot…
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 33
The Natural
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
Roosevelt
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 18
Carhartts Recommended
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Cally's Flakes
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 16
Cat on a Hot Tin Roof
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 35
Inherit the Wind
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 56
Job 3:25 (aka No Fear)
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 5
Whiff of a Dead Dog
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 35
Windy Armbuster
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Ethereal
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 107
Dead Dog
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 28
Arkansas Reality
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 14
SuperNatural
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Slam Dance Prow & Reality Wall
 34
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Blackberry Blossom (a.k.a.… Prow & Reality Wall
 38
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Natural Prow & Reality Wall
 33
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Roosevelt Chickenhead Wall
 13
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Carhartts Recommended Dead Dog & Energamata…
 18
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Cally's Flakes Chickenhead Wall
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Cat on a Hot Tin Roof Chickenhead Wall
 16
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Inherit the Wind Dead Dog & Energamata…
 35
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Job 3:25 (aka No Fear) Chickenhead Wall
 56
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Whiff of a Dead Dog Dead Dog & Energamata…
 5
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Windy Armbuster Chickenhead Wall
 35
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Ethereal Prow & Reality Wall
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Dead Dog Dead Dog & Energamata…
 107
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Arkansas Reality Prow & Reality Wall
 28
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
SuperNatural Prow & Reality Wall
 14
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in East Main Bluff »

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