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Routes in The Keep

Babo Does Thailand S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bottom Feeder S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bottom Feeder Ext. S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ghengis Bond S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Medusa's Lover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Monkey's Bum S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nut Cracker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tongue Thaid S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Description

This area is new for Mountain Project, and is just getting started. Feel free to contribute!

Goes into shade late morning. The crag is named the Keep because it was kept secret until all the routes were bolted and climbed. Vertical to slightly overhanging good limestone.
Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Getting There

From the 1-2-3 Wall head down the coastline away from the resorts. Near a jumble of boulders thru some bamboo you'll find a trail going to Duncan's Boot, Jungle Gym etc. when the trail splits go right.
From Duncan's Boot go right and around the next wall. Pass it and look for a wall with a deep canyon-like fissure (Jungle Gym). Go thru the fissure and drop down at its end onto a sloping ledge. Usually there is a fixed rope to help with the descent.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Keep

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ghengis Bond
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Medusa's Lover
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ghengis Bond 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Medusa's Lover 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Keep »

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Photos

everything here is freshly bolted with no polishing. by far the best crag on railey east for the 5.10-5.12a climber. start right and work your way left to the hard stuff and enjoy! every route deserves 2-4 stars Feb 26, 2012
Routes (left to right):

Genghis Bond
Tongue Thaid
Lom Mon (Cyclone)
Bottom Feeder
Nut Cracker
Medusa's Lover
Babo Does Thailand
Monkeys Bum Sep 28, 2008

More About The Keep

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